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Discussion starter · #81 ·
At some point in the car’s history, the ECU was tuned by Gintani. They made a mess of the ECU to the point where it was rattling inside.

They also used white kitchen caulk and painters tape to reattach the ECU’s foam cover in the wheel well. As I didn't want to hunt for a replacement foam piece, I took the advice of someone who knows (a-lot more) than me and:

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Foil Tape to the rescue!

The replacement accumulator arrived today from SuperCar Garage ATL and went right on.

Soaking some stubborn fender liner clips/bolts overnight and the car should be on the ground Sunday as Im stuck at work until then.

Also, not car related but the Tag Heuer MP4-12c watch that I recently purchased and decided to wear yesterday was running slow. Its been shipped to Tag today for service. 2-3 months estimate for its return. Awesome…

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Discussion starter · #82 ·
Car is back on the ground!

Replacement accumulator arrived and went right on. PS: Suspension fluid stains T-Shirts. Bye Bye McMedics T-Shirt lol

Re-installed wheel liners, wheels, topped off fluid and out for a test drive.

WHAT A DIFFERENCE FRESH ACCUMULATORS MAKE!!!!!

The road I take to leave my neighborhood has bumps, train tracks and expansion joints. I instantly felt the difference in comfort mode. Sport and Track modes are now more defined also.

Only pending issues with the car now is that the TPMS error is still and my wheel is slightly off centered.

The TPMS light is on even though I plugged in all sensors and they seem to be reading wheel info from every corner just fine.

We replaced the Clock Spring and Column switches with Sean but the steering wheel is keyed to the rack so its likely I never noticed the wheel slightly off in the past? Will find a local shop to get an alignment. It was on my list anyway since I'd like to ensure everything is set up properly with the new tires.

67,777.7 miles as of yesterday! Got stuck in a downpour on the way back from a late lunch. It was a blessing in disguise as it rinsed the car off from all the dust it accumulated sitting in the garage the past few months LOL

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I just had that problem: After changing accumulators, TPMS fault light would not go off. I went down a rabbit hole!
DON'T go down that rabbit hole! Check your "triggers" first -- the small box located above each wheel liner.
In my case, one wire was pulled loose in one of the triggers. It was still dangling in the trigger, so no one realized it had been pulled loose when the wheel liners were removed (for accumulators). So gently pull down the rear wheel liners and check if each plug and wiring is secure. (In my case, we had to solder the one loose wire back into the plug.)
 
Discussion starter · #84 ·
I just had that problem: After changing accumulators, TPMS fault light would not go off. I went down a rabbit hole!
DON'T go down that rabbit hole! Check your "triggers" first -- the small box located above each wheel liner.
In my case, one wire was pulled loose in one of the triggers. It was still dangling in the trigger, so no one realized it had been pulled loose when the wheel liners were removed (for accumulators). So gently pull down the rear wheel liners and check if each plug and wiring is secure. (In my case, we had to solder the one loose wire back into the plug.)
Im waiting on new fender liner hardware and i'll double check but I made sure to hear the click when re-connecting the TPMS sensors to their wires. The weird thing is that my tire pressures and temps are visible in the vehicle information center. Were you getting pressures/temps when your wire was disconnected?
 
Yes! I was getting accurate tire pressures & temp!
I may have mis-stated it: It was one of the 3 wires going into the plug -- the plug that connects to the trigger's plug. So check wiring into each plug, and of course wiring into the trigger itself. What happens is that the wire gets pulled out of the socket, but sometimes the wire stays in the housing, so you think it's plugged properly. In my case, the blue wire simply came out when I gently tugged it!
You've got the exact symptoms I had! So check the 3 wires to & from the trigger above each rear wheel liner. (Unfortunately, I changed both TPMS antennas, the TPMS modulator, & the TPMS sensors in all wheels, before I finally went back and tugged the trigger wires!)
 
Discussion starter · #86 ·
Yes! I was getting accurate tire pressures & temp!
I may have mis-stated it: It was one of the 3 wires going into the plug -- the plug that connects to the trigger's plug. So check wiring into each plug, and of course wiring into the trigger itself. What happens is that the wire gets pulled out of the socket, but sometimes the wire stays in the housing, so you think it's plugged properly. In my case, the blue wire simply came out when I gently tugged it!
You've got the exact symptoms I had! So check the 3 wires to & from the trigger above each rear wheel liner. (Unfortunately, I changed both TPMS antennas, the TPMS modulator, & the TPMS sensors in all wheels, before I finally went back and tugged the trigger wires!)
Now I get it!

Will check next time Im in there. Thanks!
 
Yes! I was getting accurate tire pressures & temp!
I may have mis-stated it: It was one of the 3 wires going into the plug -- the plug that connects to the trigger's plug. So check wiring into each plug, and of course wiring into the trigger itself. What happens is that the wire gets pulled out of the socket, but sometimes the wire stays in the housing, so you think it's plugged properly. In my case, the blue wire simply came out when I gently tugged it!
You've got the exact symptoms I had! So check the 3 wires to & from the trigger above each rear wheel liner. (Unfortunately, I changed both TPMS antennas, the TPMS modulator, & the TPMS sensors in all wheels, before I finally went back and tugged the trigger wires!)
did you update the other thread with this info?
 
Discussion starter · #89 · (Edited)
Titanium Exhaust from McMedics arrived on Friday afternoon!

Got to quick work.

To recap: My car has catless downpipe and a factory sport exhaust. There was a buzzy-ness around 3,000 to 4,500 rpm that sounded like SHIT.

The M-Engineering tune got rid of the Hot-Boi pops and bangs.

The new exhaust successfully got rid of the buzz and has a (somewhat) sexy tone to it! I still need to hear it from outside of the car but that will come.

Everything lined up just fine. Reaching the engine cover bolts from the top side was easy enough.

Notes:

1. The engine cover sits on spacers. If you drop them you'll have to remove the rear diffuser and under pan to find them. I stacked some copper washers and will find them sooner or later.
2. DO NOT start the car if the wing is in a different position than when it was parked. It will throw a code. I parked the car with the wing down, I started the car with the wing down, and still got a "air brake fault" notice. It went away with a few key cycles.
3. Take your time, this is fun!

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Installed the OEM CF rear wing I bought along with the CF side blades while I was at it. We’ll see if it stays…


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First Start Video:

 
Discussion starter · #92 ·
September update:

Not much going on. I've been driving the car and enjoying it.

I have tried to get it through Maryland Emissions three times and all three times the ECU is not yet "ready". Tech at inspection station implied that because I keep the car on a battery tender, the ECU may reset. I've left it off the tender for two weeks and drove it at least 10 times since the previous attempt at emissions and it still did not pass. I got an extension until January so I'll keep driving it and see what happens.

Only tasks pending are to get the broken screw out of the tub so I can install the final under body air diverter and schedule the DLD/Phaser maintenance for sometime this winter.
Passed 68K miles last week.

:love:
 
You need a stage 0 map to pass emissions
 
owns 2012 McLaren MP4-12C
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