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Discussion Starter #1
Seems like I've read it's recommended to put on aftermarket pads vs. the stock pads. But I can't find that thread. Do I need to change fluid or is the factory fluid ok? How many track days can I expect out of stock rotors/pads (couldn't find this info either)? Any other prep need to be done? Thanks!
 

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Seems like I've read it's recommended to put on aftermarket pads vs. the stock pads. But I can't find that thread. Do I need to change fluid or is the factory fluid ok? How many track days can I expect out of stock rotors/pads (couldn't find this info either)? Any other prep need to be done? Thanks!
Which track?
One day or two day event?
Will you be attending many track days?
Are you close enough to get a track inspection with Mac dealer?
Do you have mclaren track telemetry, track telemetry with cameras?
How many miles on the car after your last service?

I can give better answers if you fill in the blanks with the above questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Which track?
One day or two day event?
Will you be attending many track days?
Are you close enough to get a track inspection with Mac dealer?
Do you have mclaren track telemetry, track telemetry with cameras?
How many miles on the car after your last service?

I can give better answers if you fill in the blanks with the above questions.
One day, but likely will do a few a year at minimum.

Local track is a 1.8mi with a 145mph straight and another 130-135mph

No, dealer is 3 hours away. I do have a very qualified shop to work on it though local.

No, no, curious why you ask?

Probably 2k miles on the street since last service. I daily drive it. Sure hate to lose ccb's for the brake dust aspect since it's 95% daily driver/5% road race... But so be it.
 

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One day, but likely will do a few a year at minimum.

Local track is a 1.8mi with a 145mph straight and another 130-135mph

No, dealer is 3 hours away. I do have a very qualified shop to work on it though local.

No, no, curious why you ask?

Probably 2k miles on the street since last service. I daily drive it. Sure hate to lose ccb's for the brake dust aspect since it's 95% daily driver/5% road race... But so be it.
I don't think you need to go aftermarket with the iron rotors/pads with the amount of tracking you are going to do. If you want to go with the aftermarket ccb pads then that would be a good idea (pagid - I've never used them but plenty of people are using them now). The front OEM pads wear out pretty fast but not the rears.

Monitor the pads very carefully at the track day. Do not rely on the sensors that they are too low. The sensors are for the inside pads which you can't do a visual inspection of. The inner pads don't wear out as fast as the outer pads.

Google; Mclaren owners manual. Examine how to make sure the parking brake doesn't come on after a hot lap. It's not really needed with CCB but a good practice to leave that parking brake off. Sometimes you might forget and it will engage. Practice it before the track day of how to do it before you turn off the ignition and if you forget and it comes on then how to start up the car and disengage it and turn it off again. Make sure you close the doors and lock the car as it will stay awake if the parking brake is disengaged, if you don't then it will drain your battery (if it drains enough then you will not have use of the electric seats in moving them back and forth before your next session (full battery power would be restored after about 15 minutes but you won't know that this was the cause of the power seats not moving).

In the manual - it shows you how to test the oil level. Practice it before hand, practice before hand how to remove the engine cover in case you need to top off oil (the tool should be in the car to open up the engine bay). Very important that you or whoever close that oil cap properly (check the manual of how it should line up and there should be a click once it is tightened correctly). The odd car that you see on fire is exactly this problem. The person didn't know how to tighten the oil cap properly.

Your car may or may not have the update but the tire pressure low chiming should not exist anymore. It'll keep chiming until it gets back to within the acceptable street tire pressure range (its annoying).

Drive it on track in esc dynamic mode. You won't be getting the 720s experience if you're not in esc dynamic mode.

If you are trailing the car and it is entirely cold before the first session then let the engine run for a bit. If you start pushing too fast before the temps are correct then it will throw a code (not a serious code but it won't go away).

It drinks/chugs fuel worse then any mclaren car. Probably about 35 track miles before you will run out of fuel.

- I mentioned Mclaren track telemetry because it isn't easy to figure out the first time. Nothing for you to worry about on this.

If you are going to drive in auto mode but sometimes need to take it over manually - it will remain in auto/manual mode for 8 seconds before it returns to auto. You will hit the limiter in that 8 seconds if it requires a shift and you may not know it because you think it reverts back to auto immediately.

---------------------------

If you want to go aftermarket iron rotors/pads - giro discs with cobalt pads are the ones to use. Much cheaper and better wear.

If you want better tires - Goodyear eagle f1 supercar 3r (fronts will be 235 and are much, much, much cheaper with better grip then the corsas).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I don't think you need to go aftermarket with the iron rotors/pads with the amount of tracking you are going to do. If you want to go with the aftermarket ccb pads then that would be a good idea (pagid - I've never used them but plenty of people are using them now). The front OEM pads wear out pretty fast but not the rears.

Monitor the pads very carefully at the track day. Do not rely on the sensors that they are too low. The sensors are for the inside pads which you can't do a visual inspection of. The inner pads don't wear out as fast as the outer pads.

Google; Mclaren owners manual. Examine how to make sure the parking brake doesn't come on after a hot lap. It's not really needed with CCB but a good practice to leave that parking brake off. Sometimes you might forget and it will engage. Practice it before the track day of how to do it before you turn off the ignition and if you forget and it comes on then how to start up the car and disengage it and turn it off again. Make sure you close the doors and lock the car as it will stay awake if the parking brake is disengaged, if you don't then it will drain your battery (if it drains enough then you will not have use of the electric seats in moving them back and forth before your next session (full battery power would be restored after about 15 minutes but you won't know that this was the cause of the power seats not moving).

In the manual - it shows you how to test the oil level. Practice it before hand, practice before hand how to remove the engine cover in case you need to top off oil (the tool should be in the car to open up the engine bay). Very important that you or whoever close that oil cap properly (check the manual of how it should line up and there should be a click once it is tightened correctly). The odd car that you see on fire is exactly this problem. The person didn't know how to tighten the oil cap properly.

Your car may or may not have the update but the tire pressure low chiming should not exist anymore. It'll keep chiming until it gets back to within the acceptable street tire pressure range (its annoying).

Drive it on track in esc dynamic mode. You won't be getting the 720s experience if you're not in esc dynamic mode.

If you are trailing the car and it is entirely cold before the first session then let the engine run for a bit. If you start pushing too fast before the temps are correct then it will throw a code (not a serious code but it won't go away).

It drinks/chugs fuel worse then any mclaren car. Probably about 35 track miles before you will run out of fuel.

- I mentioned Mclaren track telemetry because it isn't easy to figure out the first time. Nothing for you to worry about on this.

If you are going to drive in auto mode but sometimes need to take it over manually - it will remain in auto/manual mode for 8 seconds before it returns to auto. You will hit the limiter in that 8 seconds if it requires a shift and you may not know it because you think it reverts back to auto immediately.

---------------------------

If you want to go aftermarket iron rotors/pads - giro discs with cobalt pads are the ones to use. Much cheaper and better wear.

If you want better tires - Goodyear eagle f1 supercar 3r (fronts will be 235 and are much, much, much cheaper with better grip then the corsas).
Great info, thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I don't think you need to go aftermarket with the iron rotors/pads with the amount of tracking you are going to do. If you want to go with the aftermarket ccb pads then that would be a good idea (pagid - I've never used them but plenty of people are using them now). The front OEM pads wear out pretty fast but not the rears.

Monitor the pads very carefully at the track day. Do not rely on the sensors that they are too low. The sensors are for the inside pads which you can't do a visual inspection of. The inner pads don't wear out as fast as the outer pads.

Google; Mclaren owners manual. Examine how to make sure the parking brake doesn't come on after a hot lap. It's not really needed with CCB but a good practice to leave that parking brake off. Sometimes you might forget and it will engage. Practice it before the track day of how to do it before you turn off the ignition and if you forget and it comes on then how to start up the car and disengage it and turn it off again. Make sure you close the doors and lock the car as it will stay awake if the parking brake is disengaged, if you don't then it will drain your battery (if it drains enough then you will not have use of the electric seats in moving them back and forth before your next session (full battery power would be restored after about 15 minutes but you won't know that this was the cause of the power seats not moving).

In the manual - it shows you how to test the oil level. Practice it before hand, practice before hand how to remove the engine cover in case you need to top off oil (the tool should be in the car to open up the engine bay). Very important that you or whoever close that oil cap properly (check the manual of how it should line up and there should be a click once it is tightened correctly). The odd car that you see on fire is exactly this problem. The person didn't know how to tighten the oil cap properly.

Your car may or may not have the update but the tire pressure low chiming should not exist anymore. It'll keep chiming until it gets back to within the acceptable street tire pressure range (its annoying).

Drive it on track in esc dynamic mode. You won't be getting the 720s experience if you're not in esc dynamic mode.

If you are trailing the car and it is entirely cold before the first session then let the engine run for a bit. If you start pushing too fast before the temps are correct then it will throw a code (not a serious code but it won't go away).

It drinks/chugs fuel worse then any mclaren car. Probably about 35 track miles before you will run out of fuel.

- I mentioned Mclaren track telemetry because it isn't easy to figure out the first time. Nothing for you to worry about on this.

If you are going to drive in auto mode but sometimes need to take it over manually - it will remain in auto/manual mode for 8 seconds before it returns to auto. You will hit the limiter in that 8 seconds if it requires a shift and you may not know it because you think it reverts back to auto immediately.

---------------------------

If you want to go aftermarket iron rotors/pads - giro discs with cobalt pads are the ones to use. Much cheaper and better wear.

If you want better tires - Goodyear eagle f1 supercar 3r (fronts will be 235 and are much, much, much cheaper with better grip then the corsas).
Anything specifically to look for when monitoring the front pads?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't think you need to go aftermarket with the iron rotors/pads with the amount of tracking you are going to do. If you want to go with the aftermarket ccb pads then that would be a good idea (pagid - I've never used them but plenty of people are using them now). The front OEM pads wear out pretty fast but not the rears.

Monitor the pads very carefully at the track day. Do not rely on the sensors that they are too low. The sensors are for the inside pads which you can't do a visual inspection of. The inner pads don't wear out as fast as the outer pads.

Google; Mclaren owners manual. Examine how to make sure the parking brake doesn't come on after a hot lap. It's not really needed with CCB but a good practice to leave that parking brake off. Sometimes you might forget and it will engage. Practice it before the track day of how to do it before you turn off the ignition and if you forget and it comes on then how to start up the car and disengage it and turn it off again. Make sure you close the doors and lock the car as it will stay awake if the parking brake is disengaged, if you don't then it will drain your battery (if it drains enough then you will not have use of the electric seats in moving them back and forth before your next session (full battery power would be restored after about 15 minutes but you won't know that this was the cause of the power seats not moving).

In the manual - it shows you how to test the oil level. Practice it before hand, practice before hand how to remove the engine cover in case you need to top off oil (the tool should be in the car to open up the engine bay). Very important that you or whoever close that oil cap properly (check the manual of how it should line up and there should be a click once it is tightened correctly). The odd car that you see on fire is exactly this problem. The person didn't know how to tighten the oil cap properly.

Your car may or may not have the update but the tire pressure low chiming should not exist anymore. It'll keep chiming until it gets back to within the acceptable street tire pressure range (its annoying).

Drive it on track in esc dynamic mode. You won't be getting the 720s experience if you're not in esc dynamic mode.

If you are trailing the car and it is entirely cold before the first session then let the engine run for a bit. If you start pushing too fast before the temps are correct then it will throw a code (not a serious code but it won't go away).

It drinks/chugs fuel worse then any mclaren car. Probably about 35 track miles before you will run out of fuel.

- I mentioned Mclaren track telemetry because it isn't easy to figure out the first time. Nothing for you to worry about on this.

If you are going to drive in auto mode but sometimes need to take it over manually - it will remain in auto/manual mode for 8 seconds before it returns to auto. You will hit the limiter in that 8 seconds if it requires a shift and you may not know it because you think it reverts back to auto immediately.

---------------------------

If you want to go aftermarket iron rotors/pads - giro discs with cobalt pads are the ones to use. Much cheaper and better wear.

If you want better tires - Goodyear eagle f1 supercar 3r (fronts will be 235 and are much, much, much cheaper with better grip then the corsas).
And... Are you saying to just replace the front pads with the pagids? Or should I go ahead and replace all four corners?
 

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And... Are you saying to just replace the front pads with the pagids? Or should I go ahead and replace all four corners?
Go all four. It is much cheaper.

You can sort of tell on these forums of who has tracked 720s because they all come here looking for rotor/pad solution.

Monitor is just a visual inspection after each session. You can look before the track day and see that you may have 6 mm left and think you have plenty left and get lazy with not looking at it and then boom, no more pad left. At Laguna Seca, my front right outer pad (OEM) goes out 1.5 mm per session. The front left and rears wear out normally, relatively speaking. The cost frustration is when only one of the pads is getting too low and the Mac dealer makes you buy per axle and you are leaving plenty of pad on one and replacing it unnecessarily (I've had situations where front left had 6 mm left and front right had 3 to 4 mm left and Mac dealer sells in pairs/axle and I left plenty on the table with the 6 mm. The last time out at Laguna Seca; one of the 720s owners had the same issue and it was part of a two day event. He was about to go home early on Day 2. I just had him go over to one of the race teams and swap the left and right pad and he was able to make it through the second day.
 

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If your car is two years old, you MUST change your Brake Fluid!
Joe
 

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For the original poster I do not think you need to change the rotors. For someone who does a lot of track days I think the Giro discs are not the best solution. They are the easiest and cheapest solution but not the best solution, in my opinion. You paid good money for a car. Part of the design and investment in the car is light weight. The most critical weight on the car is un-sprung rotating mass. That's the tires, rims, rotors. Carbon Ceramic rotors are very thick. The Giro Disc are very thick and heavy. You are adding quite a bit of rotating un-sprung weight.

AP Racing makes a replacement kit that includes, Rotors, Calipers and brake hoses. The kit is ~ $11K for 4 wheels. The design of the caliper takes a very common brake pad shape so there are lots of choices. The Pads are very thick, so they have a lot of material to wear. There is a weight gain but it is minimal. If you track enough the calipers will get very hot and could change color as they cook. I have no direct knowledge of that but it could happen. The benefit is, you take your stock system off, put it away. Track the car, when it is time to sell you put the stock system back on, it looks brand new. The AP racing system has value and you can sell it. It is pricey but it is the best solution.

You will not find Carbon Ceramic brakes on race cars. You will find AP racing brakes on many true race cars.

Enjoy your track day(s). They are great fun and you can see what the car car really do!

Bill
 

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Which track?
One day or two day event?
Will you be attending many track days?
Are you close enough to get a track inspection with Mac dealer?
Do you have mclaren track telemetry, track telemetry with cameras?
How many miles on the car after your last service?

I can give better answers if you fill in the blanks with the above questions.
I have the Mclaren Telemetry with Cam, I cant figure out how to turn it on. When I go into settings, everything is greyed out except two options
 

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I have the Mclaren Telemetry with Cam, I cant figure out how to turn it on. When I go into settings, everything is greyed out except two options
Take a pic and post it here of the screen
 

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When I go into settings, and scroll down- thats what I get
I was able to re-produce your screen (I thought it was odd that you were connected to bluetooth, because the first thing that happens once you go into the telemetry system is that it kicks off the bluetooth.

On the home screen for infotainment, do not go into settings. You went into settings and then track telemetry and it didn't open up the camera layout for you.

instead

on the home screen go into track telemetry first (it will then kick you off the bluetooth). Then do the following (note; some of my instruction, such as "compare to best lap", etc. will only open up if you have already gone on track and traced the track map.
 
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