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Discussion Starter #1
I track my 570GT, but OEM pads last 1.5 track days. Not good. Any recommendations?

Sonoma Raceway and EBC recommends (front pads): DP4062R (Yellowstuff) & DP5062NDX (Bluestuff)

What about:
- Rear pads for steel rotor?
- Steel rotor replacement?

Thank you in advance!

By the way, after first track day...OEM tires were too narrow and Pirelli compound was terrible (chunks flew off), so I upgrade to:
- Front: PILOT SPORT CUP 2 - SIZE: 235/35ZR19
- Rear: PILOT SPORT CUP 2 - SIZE: 295/30ZR20
Love these Michelin tires for track days. Width and material are great! Here is a >95MPH drift with the OEM tires:
 

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There is a company called Coleman Machine. (http://www.colemanracing.com) If you send them a front and rear rotor, they can machine up any hat and rotor combination for a fraction of the cost of OEM. I would strongly suggest going with SLOTTED rotors over drilled, the holes clog and WHEN the rotor fails it will crack at the holes.
Pagid race pads from Northstar in Chicago are the way to go. (http://www.northstarmotorsports.com/pagid) Also upgrade the brake fluid to Castrol SRF.
Buy some Brake Temperature paint (Pegasus Racing in Wisconsin https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=4974) sells a single bottle type that changes colors depending on how hot the brakes are getting. As Ross Bentley said,"there is speed in how you apply and release the brakes" If you are on them too long you will over heat them and they will burn quicker. I instructed a GT with steel brakes at Watkins Glen, (lots of high speed heavy braking) and he was not in danger of going through his pads.
Next time out ask yourself as you drive:
Am I squeezing on the brakes or slamming on the brakes?
Am I rolling off the brakes as I turn in or hopping off the brakes as I turn in?
Fine tuning brake release will shave seconds off your lap times.

The real trick is to get proficient at left foot braking so as to make the transactions seamless.
Happy driving.
 

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There is a company called Coleman Machine. (http://www.colemanracing.com) If you send them a front and rear rotor, they can machine up any hat and rotor combination for a fraction of the cost of OEM.

Be careful with this. Search on in the 12C sub-forum for user Snowhorn. He and a couple others in the Austin area tried this on their 12C's in the early days at COTA and the Coleman rings cracked prematurely.


Now that Girodisc has a proper option, that is the way to go for steel replacements.
 

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Now that Girodisc has a proper option, that is the way to go for steel replacements.
+1 on the girodisc and cobalt pads.

I use the girodisc for 570s with spacers on my 720s. The pads are lasting considerably longer and no drop off in performance. Extremely cost effective compared to OEM on the 720s. I highly recommend them (this is the first Mac car that I have done after market (i've owned six of them).

The OEM pad and rotor wear on the front pads of 720s leave a lot to be desired compared to the other Mac's and I didn't think I had much of a choice if I wanted to keep tracking. (OEM pad/rotor wear and cost on 720s is cost prohibitive if one wants to keep tracking at say Laguna Seca).
 

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Be careful with this. Search on in the 12C sub-forum for user Snowhorn. He and a couple others in the Austin area tried this on their 12C's in the early days at COTA and the Coleman rings cracked prematurely.


Now that Girodisc has a proper option, that is the way to go for steel replacements.
Didn't know this. I used Coleman rotors on my E36 M3GTR for years with no problem. Were the brakes ducted at all? If the temps get too extreme the rotors might fail due to heat shock or fatigue. Hence the recommendation for the temp paint on the outside edge of the rotor so you see how hot the brakes are getting.
 

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Didn't know this. I used Coleman rotors on my E36 M3GTR for years with no problem. Were the brakes ducted at all? If the temps get too extreme the rotors might fail due to heat shock or fatigue. Hence the recommendation for the temp paint on the outside edge of the rotor so you see how hot the brakes are getting.

The OE discs did not crack that quickly and the Girodisc are even better. The Coleman parts were simply inferior and not up to the task.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you all for the replies. Quick update...

I went with:
- Front pads (Pagid RS29): https://www.paragon-products.com/Pagid-Race-Pad-Set-4346-p/u4346-pagid.htm
- Rear pads (Pagid RS29): https://www.paragon-products.com/Pagid-Race-Pad-Set-U4345-p/u4345-pagid.htm
- Brake fluid (Pagid RBF): https://www.paragon-products.com/Brake-Fluid-Pagid-RBF-p/rbf9501600014.htm

I am holding off on the rotors for now, but I will most likely try the Girodisc when the car is ready: https://www.girodisc.com/Rotors_c_1387.html

Installation is planned for early March and then first track day of the 2019 season isn't until April 4th...so I will report back after that.
 

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Do bear in mind in theory you're supposed to use a DOT 5.1 brake fluid. Rbf I believe is dot 4. No idea if it makes a difference to be fair but worth noting.
 

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Thank you all for the replies. Quick update...

I went with:
- Front pads (Pagid RS29): https://www.paragon-products.com/Pagid-Race-Pad-Set-4346-p/u4346-pagid.htm
- Rear pads (Pagid RS29): https://www.paragon-products.com/Pagid-Race-Pad-Set-U4345-p/u4345-pagid.htm
- Brake fluid (Pagid RBF): https://www.paragon-products.com/Brake-Fluid-Pagid-RBF-p/rbf9501600014.htm

I am holding off on the rotors for now, but I will most likely try the Girodisc when the car is ready: https://www.girodisc.com/Rotors_c_1387.html

Installation is planned for early March and then first track day of the 2019 season isn't until April 4th...so I will report back after that.

For the OE steel rotors, the service manual has specs on "allowed cracking", with pics. Basically, no crack longer than 1", none within 1/4" of the edge, and none connecting two holes. You'll get plenty of warning, as the cracks develop fairly slowly.


Keep the holes clean...it will help.


Do bear in mind in theory you're supposed to use a DOT 5.1 brake fluid. Rbf I believe is dot 4. No idea if it makes a difference to be fair but worth noting.

For this application, it will make no difference.


The major difference between DOT4 and DOT 5.1 is minimum boiling points...and *all* of the track oriented fluids beat those mins by a ton. So a track DOT 4 fluid is very often more boil-resistant than an OE-fill DOT 5.1.


The other big difference is viscosity. DOT 4 specs allow for a thicker fluid, which can be a problem for modern ABS units. DOT 5.1 specs out a more consistently thin fluid. But again, the best DOT4 racing fluids exceed this by a wide margin.


As for the Pagid fluid, I can't find a DOT rating at all. My google-fu is failing me...
 

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For this application, it will make no difference.


The major difference between DOT4 and DOT 5.1 is minimum boiling points...and *all* of the track oriented fluids beat those mins by a ton. So a track DOT 4 fluid is very often more boil-resistant than an OE-fill DOT 5.1.


The other big difference is viscosity. DOT 4 specs allow for a thicker fluid, which can be a problem for modern ABS units. DOT 5.1 specs out a more consistently thin fluid. But again, the best DOT4 racing fluids exceed this by a wide margin...
I remember reading something about viscosity that's why in the end when I had my 12c I stayed with a dot 5.1 (but went to motul than oem which is oentosin) rather the usual suspects castrol srf or endless.
 
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