Quality aftermarket sound system
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Play around with the settings. This I have mine set to Pure, and also I have reduced the rear speaker levels to have a better front image / soundstage. It isn't bad, but it is good enough for long trips IMO. Also depends on the quality of your recordings that you are using, don't expect FM radio to sound good, it does not and will not, even with the best of systems.
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I've fiddled with all settings! I love the loud engine sound in the cabin.
I've also done 3 years of sound engineering/production , so i know all about quality and what no!
I guess I'm just picky! haha
The Bang & Olufsen system in my SLS is infinitely better!
I was also unimpressed with the Meridian sound system in my evoque.
Just cause it's loud, doesnt make it good!
I've also done 3 years of sound engineering/production , so i know all about quality and what no!
I guess I'm just picky! haha
The Bang & Olufsen system in my SLS is infinitely better!
I was also unimpressed with the Meridian sound system in my evoque.
Just cause it's loud, doesnt make it good!
You might consider reducing each modes ISG settings. Most owners have every mode set at the lowest setting, and that would also prolong the lifespan of the ISG tube, that does need to be replaced over time, depending on useage.
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Seconded on Burn In, when I first run files through it was harsh. Get yourself on a long journey and just play audio constantly. Use WAV or AAC lossless files, makes a big difference. I run some weighty Arcam kit at home and the fidelity/imaging is absolutely comparable.
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I noticed mine sounded better around the 100 hour mark. Then after the v10 upgrade it sounded amazing. Oddly, after my last upgrade it seemed to go backwards a bit, not sure why. Maybe they forgot to include some of the tweaks they had just put in before.
Also, keep windows open at least half an inch you will notice more bass. Unless it is raining.
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I was going to post the open window bit but I thought I was imagining it. Whew.I noticed mine sounded better around the 100 hour mark. Then after the v10 upgrade it sounded amazing. Oddly, after my last upgrade it seemed to go backwards a bit, not sure why. Maybe they forgot to include some of the tweaks they had just put in before.
Also, keep windows open at least half an inch you will notice more bass. Unless it is raining.
As for speaker break in, at about 8/10th through the ac/dc catalogue they warmed up a bit. But I love British speakers. My Monitors at home took a long while to settle down.
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Looking back at my earlier post on sound quality (bearing in mind that was pre the last major update), I'd say at least 24 hours of running in, preferably more. Meridien kit in general is very neutral/illuminating/unforgiving of poor recordings in the first place so you may well find some stuff just doesn't sound very musical - it won't be the kit, just the actual recording.
I was told the tube is replaced with every annual service.
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Don't believe everything you're told.
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691 Posts
1) Use the pure setting, with everything "flat" and rear speakers "off"
2) Use lossless or uncompressed audio files, forget MP3s and FM
3) Run the system on reasonably loud volume for about 24 hours
4) While listening to something you know well, begin to add rear speaker until you hear the sound image coalesce over the dashboard.
The system is very neutral, with great imaging. If I was going to do anything, I'd start by adding a small subwoofer somewhere, taking signal off the speaker-level input (use a left speaker channel), through a cross over (Linkwtiz-Reilly -24db/octave cutting off at 120hz). Run that sub's amp completely separately from the rest of the system (the only place it needs to contact the current system is where it takes signal from the speaker). If you gain the sub's amp sufficiently (be careful - but over time you'll figure the balance between bass setting and amp gain), you'll be able to set the head unit's bass at a negative number and still have bass from your sub. The reduction in bass signal will allow the rest of the system to play more loudly without distorting, and you'll make up for it with bass from the sub.
Proceed with caution! If you decide to mount all this on your rear shelf, remember that heavy sub box won't be fun banging around the cabin in an accident.
2) Use lossless or uncompressed audio files, forget MP3s and FM
3) Run the system on reasonably loud volume for about 24 hours
4) While listening to something you know well, begin to add rear speaker until you hear the sound image coalesce over the dashboard.
The system is very neutral, with great imaging. If I was going to do anything, I'd start by adding a small subwoofer somewhere, taking signal off the speaker-level input (use a left speaker channel), through a cross over (Linkwtiz-Reilly -24db/octave cutting off at 120hz). Run that sub's amp completely separately from the rest of the system (the only place it needs to contact the current system is where it takes signal from the speaker). If you gain the sub's amp sufficiently (be careful - but over time you'll figure the balance between bass setting and amp gain), you'll be able to set the head unit's bass at a negative number and still have bass from your sub. The reduction in bass signal will allow the rest of the system to play more loudly without distorting, and you'll make up for it with bass from the sub.
Proceed with caution! If you decide to mount all this on your rear shelf, remember that heavy sub box won't be fun banging around the cabin in an accident.
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I doubt you'd need to do aftermarket high-frequency speakers, as the units in the door are insanely well-made (6" mid-woofer in a sealed enclosure, with a tweeter (also in its own enclosure) mounted "on axis" for imaging). When you see what's in there, you'll see what I mean. It's crazy stuff for a car like this.
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Personally - I'd likely go nuts. I'd find the full-range signal from the head unit, intercept that and go to my AudiControl crossover and then to my own amps to run the speakers already in the car, plus an additional sub. But it would add weight (because I'd only use analog amps which are bigger/heaver than Class-D (read "Class: Distortion") digital amps.
I'd use an a/d/s PQ20.2 (120w x 4 with a >500 Damping Factor). I'd use two channels to run the front mid-woofs, and I'd bridge the other two channels (into a single 240w channel) to run whatever sub I was thinking about (likely a very small-enclosure 8" something). I'd likely cross the sub over at 90hz, as the door woofers can easily get that low.
I'd use an ADS PS5.2 (60w x 2) to run the front tweets. And other PS5.2 could run the rear speakers, which I'd relocate to the center of the rear shelf and run mono, between 120hz and 2200hz for rear fill.
I'd also void a chunk of my warranty (if anything happened), so there's that...
but it would sound epic. The car already behaves like it's got some very smart application of sound deadening, so I don't think I'd have to address that (unless to quell resonance from the volume increase which would occur).
I'd use an a/d/s PQ20.2 (120w x 4 with a >500 Damping Factor). I'd use two channels to run the front mid-woofs, and I'd bridge the other two channels (into a single 240w channel) to run whatever sub I was thinking about (likely a very small-enclosure 8" something). I'd likely cross the sub over at 90hz, as the door woofers can easily get that low.
I'd use an ADS PS5.2 (60w x 2) to run the front tweets. And other PS5.2 could run the rear speakers, which I'd relocate to the center of the rear shelf and run mono, between 120hz and 2200hz for rear fill.
I'd also void a chunk of my warranty (if anything happened), so there's that...
but it would sound epic. The car already behaves like it's got some very smart application of sound deadening, so I don't think I'd have to address that (unless to quell resonance from the volume increase which would occur).
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I'm minutes away from jumping off this cliff. The amp seems straight forward - an 8-wire RJ-45 "control" cable then 7 outputs to the various speakers.
1) does anyone know the pin-out for that RJ-45 control cable, it's only 8 wires.
2) are the speakers actually good, are they simply under-amped like 99% of other factory systems?
3) do I just rip & replace (speakers & amp). The front door enclosures are very well done (6.5" bass, 3" mid). rears are same 3" mids. Center, IDK. They say there are 7 speakers...
There is plenty of room where the factory amp is to stack at least 2 Alpine or similar amps. The rear plates where the 3" mids are mounted will easily accommodate a 5.25" if not a 6.5" coaxial. The doors will support a set of 6.5" components (separate tweets) or a set of 3-way components like the Focal KRX3 with the 6.5", 3", 1" speakers.
Just looking for thoughts. BTW my stereo guy during the radar install found that there is a cover panel over the passenger foot well (looks like where the pedals would mount if it were a RHD car) - he said its deep enough behind the paned to easily build a box with an 8" sub and there would be no loss of room - in other words he could use the same cover panel in the same location and you would never know there was a sub up there. I hate pulling out a "premium sound" system, but I prefer to hear my music. Sure I'll add 30-40 pounds to the car. I'm sure I can stack on enough MSO CF goodies to compensate
1) does anyone know the pin-out for that RJ-45 control cable, it's only 8 wires.
2) are the speakers actually good, are they simply under-amped like 99% of other factory systems?
3) do I just rip & replace (speakers & amp). The front door enclosures are very well done (6.5" bass, 3" mid). rears are same 3" mids. Center, IDK. They say there are 7 speakers...
There is plenty of room where the factory amp is to stack at least 2 Alpine or similar amps. The rear plates where the 3" mids are mounted will easily accommodate a 5.25" if not a 6.5" coaxial. The doors will support a set of 6.5" components (separate tweets) or a set of 3-way components like the Focal KRX3 with the 6.5", 3", 1" speakers.
Just looking for thoughts. BTW my stereo guy during the radar install found that there is a cover panel over the passenger foot well (looks like where the pedals would mount if it were a RHD car) - he said its deep enough behind the paned to easily build a box with an 8" sub and there would be no loss of room - in other words he could use the same cover panel in the same location and you would never know there was a sub up there. I hate pulling out a "premium sound" system, but I prefer to hear my music. Sure I'll add 30-40 pounds to the car. I'm sure I can stack on enough MSO CF goodies to compensate
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