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BTW, like every other "locking" fuel door, it's pretty simple to circumvent. And I certainly wouldn't hesitate getting it open in a emergency situation, rather than being stranded waiting for roadside.
 

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I just went into me garage and poped the gas lid to look at the mechanism it is nothing more then a piece of square plastic with a notch on each side on the flap, below it on the car itself is 2 upright pieces of plasic the catch the upper piece when it unlocks the 2 lowers spread apart a fraction and it pops. I believe ir would be easy to bend a paper clip in an L shape and pop it open. If nothing else it can be pried open the little plastic piece would break and be easy to replace and no need for a tow truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Any chance you can take a quick picture of it. Paperclip solution sounds like it could be a winner!
 

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My car has 1200 miles on it. Jerry has some good info in the thread above and it sounds like it affected the early build cars. Still think it makes sense to retrofit a emergency release. It would be a straight shot to the fuel filler door from the panel they already have designated for the manual door release.
Yes ...... A lanyard could be easily retrofitted from the plastic catch down into that chamber where the physical lock is located.
 

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I looked at the underside of my cover and that little nub or appendage doesn't look anything like what's pictured here. From what I can recall mine looked more like the shape of an omega of sorts. When I pick up my putt-putt on Friday I will take a picture if it is different then what's pictured above. Cheers.....??
 

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Going back to my experience .... if you are the type who is always aware of the various different noises your car makes (I am and I suspect most of us are the same) then you'll likely be aware of a problem developing. In a LHD car your are fairly close to the fuel filler whenever you are locking or unlocking the car and can hear the mechanism. I was aware that there was something wrong maybe 3 or 4 weeks before it finally failed. The noise made by the locking mechanism got louder/longer, sometimes didn't make any noise (i.e. failed to operate) and was sometimes "normal". I had already flagged my observations to the dealer and they immediately said it must be the solenoid and were prepared to replace it ..... I didn't ultimately get stranded on a forecourt but was stranded elsewhere due to the driver's door failing to latch closed (just before the solenoid finally gave up)..... the joy's of being an early adopter :D

The replacement solenoid resulted in a much quieter locking/unlocking and this is the same with my current car. Hence why I say the issue has likely been fixed on later cars.

The first car had covered maybe 8000 km and had been refueled say 30 times (ish) before the issue happened. The current car has been refueled almost every week for the last 6 months without any issue.
 

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Just thinking about what I posted ..... the number of times refueled is irrelevant, it's the number of times the car goes through the locking cycle as the filler cap locks/unlocks everytime. Mine's a DD so it goes throught the locking cycle a minimum of twice everyday.
 

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Video of Fuel Filler Solenoid in Action

I'm going to order my next McLaren from MSO with a manual fuel filler door pull. :)

My buddy just had this happen to him yesterday so I started reading this thread so I would be prepared when this happens to me. First, I agree, there should be a retrofit for a manual pull like the frunk has one in the door and one in the frunk and the manual door pulls etc.

I made a video of the solenoid in action. http://youtu.be/JFunVV9CmlQ http://youtu.be/JFunVV9CmlQ Notice how it goes up (locked position) when I press the lock button on the key fob and it goes down (unlocked position) when I press the unlock button on the key fob. This pin goes into the brass hole on the filler hinge preventing it from being opened.

You could disable the solenoid buy adding an inline switch for when your on long trips so it won't lock (go up) as a backup plan. I image this might cause all sorts of warnings and alarms and probably cause the cap to open up on the road at speed since the pin is no longer locking it in place.

Also, if you know you will be on a long trip and don't want to be stranded far away from home then it would be nice to have a backup plan. I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS option since you will probably damage your solenoid and solenoid pin but I am curious if you could block the pin from going into the brass slot in the fuel filler hinge so it would therefore not lock. All you need to do is insert a small screw in the brass hole so the pin goes up but never in the brass hole (that's what she said!!). I don't even want to try this because its insane to have to do something this STUPID to a Supercar just to protect yourself from a possible lockout scenario.

Come on McLaren Engineering!?!?!?!?!? I'm going to order my next McLaren from MSO with a manual fuel filler door pull. :)
 

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I'm going to order my next McLaren from MSO with a manual fuel filler door pull. :)

My buddy just had this happen to him yesterday so I started reading this thread so I would be prepared when this happens to me. First, I agree, there should be a retrofit for a manual pull like the frunk has one in the door and one in the frunk and the manual door pulls etc.

I made a video of the solenoid in action. http://youtu.be/JFunVV9CmlQ Notice how it goes up (locked position) when I press the lock button on the key fob and it goes down (unlocked position) when I press the unlock button on the key fob. This pin goes into the brass hole on the filler hinge preventing it from being opened.

You could disable the solenoid buy adding an inline switch for when your on long trips so it won't lock (go up) as a backup plan. I image this might cause all sorts of warnings and alarms and probably cause the cap to open up on the road at speed since the pin is no longer locking it in place.

Also, if you know you will be on a long trip and don't want to be stranded far away from home then it would be nice to have a backup plan. I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS option since you will probably damage your solenoid and solenoid pin but I am curious if you could block the pin from going into the brass slot in the fuel filler hinge so it would therefore not lock. All you need to do is insert a small screw in the brass hole so the pin goes up but never in the brass hole (that's what she said!!). I don't even want to try this because its insane to have to do something this STUPID to a Supercar just to protect yourself from a possible lockout scenario.

Come on McLaren Engineering!?!?!?!?!? I'm going to order my next McLaren from MSO with a manual fuel filler door pull. :)
What year and when was it built
 

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Guess I will be filling up my tank very time it gets near 1/4 or higher....That way if it doesn't open up, I can at least drive home or to the dealer
 

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Nice video, and looks to me like the pin is actually in a really difficult place to access with a "paperclip or fishing wire" - right under the hinge. The earlier photos must have just been of the latch not the locking mechanism. I think I'm going to put some WD40 on my pin tomorrow - sounds like the one in the video could do with some too!

If someone could come up with an easy way to disable the locking pin I would probably do that. After all, how many of us leave the car unattended in a vulnerable location?

Best, F
 

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So.... I had this issue with my 650. Of course I was two thousand miles from home, and doing a road rally to pebble beach.

What was happening with it seemed to be heat related and the solenoid would not work when stopping for fuel. First time really freaked me out, after 25 minutes at the pump with no luck wiggling the cap, locking and unlocking the car to try to activate the solenoid... I got in the car to move it away form the pump and when shutting off the car it popped open. Filled, and every time I checked it for the rest of the day, it was stuck.

That evening it was stuck when we got back to our house. After dinner, went out to see what we could do, and it was working. (it had cooled)

The temporary fix that got us through our two week trip.

With the pin in the down position (so the lid would open) Took an old hotel plastic key card, broke it in half, and folded it so it was double thick, and it fit right into the area under the door keeping the pin from raising into the hole in the door. This held the pin down when the car started and auto locked the doors. The lids plastic catch would hold when the solenoid would push up against the plastic card. A few times it popped open on me, but I could ALWAYS fuel it at that point. I was not worried of it hurting the solenoid as the dealer was going to replace it anyway.

The dealer fix would be to pull the rear tire, pull the inner fender liner, and remove or replace the solenoid.
 

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Thanks for sharing the plastic card trick. I would have probably done the same thing if I was away from home like that.

Just curious if a drop of lubricate is recommend or would this cause premature failure of the solenoid for other reasons maybe?? I just had my 3 year service and I wonder of the dealer lucubrates that solenoid or not? I noticed they did replace my key fob battery. LOL.
 

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Thanks for sharing the plastic card trick. I would have probably done the same thing if I was away from home like that.

Just curious if a drop of lubricate is recommend or would this cause premature failure of the solenoid for other reasons maybe?? I just had my 3 year service and I wonder of the dealer lucubrates that solenoid or not? I noticed they did replace my key fob battery. LOL.
With it bing a steel pin and sliding into what looks like a brass sleeve, I don't think lubricant would really aid to it working smoother. It may actually attract more dirt and be worse than leaving it alone. I don't think my issue was any type of sticking issue, more just a failure with the solenoid itself.
 
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