McLaren Life banner

41 - 60 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Any updates on this brake issue?

I'm relatively new to the McLaren world. I've got a 2016 650S that has been behaving perfectly for several months until today. The first thing I noticed was that the parking brake was on while I was sitting at a red light (on level ground). I turned it off and drove away, but then I noticed it came back on at the next light. The car was well warmed up long before then, so it definitely isn't a cold start issue. The other weird thing it started doing today is telling me I had to open the doors to complete a roof open or close cycle. Just cracking open both a bit was enough for it to do the roof, then I could close both doors and everything seemed fine.

At the advice of a dealer I disconnected the battery for a couple of hours and reconnected. I started the car, turned off the parking brake, and reset the date and time while sitting in my garage idling. At first it stayed off, but after 5 or 10 minutes just idling there, it re-engaged. I turned it off and a few seconds later it came back on, so seemingly the same symptoms as before the power reset. After the power reset the roof works without having to open the doors, but the parking brake seems hellbent on re-engaging whenever I'm stopped or moving very slowly. Doesn't seem to matter if I'm in D, N, or R. Applying some gas gets it to release, but as others have noted, it's a bit annoying to have it jerk you to a stop when you're moving very slowly. There's no way this is a normal "feature" of the car... something is screwed up.

I measured battery voltage at just under 14 volts while the car is idling, which seems reasonable to me. When the engine is off it drops to roughly 13.6 volts shortly after the ignition is turned off. I'll re-measure it tomorrow after it sits all night. Closest dealer is many hours away, so I'm really hoping there's a solution I can apply myself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Any updates on this brake issue?

I'm relatively new to the McLaren world. I've got a 2016 650S that has been behaving perfectly for several months until today. The first thing I noticed was that the parking brake was on while I was sitting at a red light (on level ground). I turned it off and drove away, but then I noticed it came back on at the next light. The car was well warmed up long before then, so it definitely isn't a cold start issue. The other weird thing it started doing today is telling me I had to open the doors to complete a roof open or close cycle. Just cracking open both a bit was enough for it to do the roof, then I could close both doors and everything seemed fine.

At the advice of a dealer I disconnected the battery for a couple of hours and reconnected. I started the car, turned off the parking brake, and reset the date and time while sitting in my garage idling. At first it stayed off, but after 5 or 10 minutes just idling there, it re-engaged. I turned it off and a few seconds later it came back on, so seemingly the same symptoms as before the power reset. After the power reset the roof works without having to open the doors, but the parking brake seems hellbent on re-engaging whenever I'm stopped or moving very slowly. Doesn't seem to matter if I'm in D, N, or R. Applying some gas gets it to release, but as others have noted, it's a bit annoying to have it jerk you to a stop when you're moving very slowly. There's no way this is a normal "feature" of the car... something is screwed up.

I measured battery voltage at just under 14 volts while the car is idling, which seems reasonable to me. When the engine is off it drops to roughly 13.6 volts shortly after the ignition is turned off. I'll re-measure it tomorrow after it sits all night. Closest dealer is many hours away, so I'm really hoping there's a solution I can apply myself.
Hey - by chance did you ever figure this out? What your describing with the e-brake is identical to what happened with my 650s (2016 spider) today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
2015 650s Spider. I am having the same problem with the brake applying itself when stopped at a light. Battery power says 100% when first starting the car then goes to 0% after about 30 seconds. Error message on display says "Battery Management Active / See Owner's Manual." There is nothing in the manual addressing this! I'm afraid to drive the car in fear of getting stuck somewhere. Battery voltage at terminals is 13.6 with engine off and 13.8 when running. Don't know where to go from here....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
364 Posts
2015 650s Spider. I am having the same problem with the brake applying itself when stopped at a light. Battery power says 100% when first starting the car then goes to 0% after about 30 seconds. Error message on display says "Battery Management Active / See Owner's Manual." There is nothing in the manual addressing this! I'm afraid to drive the car in fear of getting stuck somewhere. Battery voltage at terminals is 13.6 with engine off and 13.8 when running. Don't know where to go from here....
Yes, that was a common nuisance issue on that platform. My 12c did it too.
I just got on the habit of starting the car and letting it sit for 15-30 seconds before releasing the parking brake.
It’s a software related quirk i believe.
 

·
Premium Member
2012 "Swipe" MP4-12C
Joined
·
675 Posts
2015 650s Spider. I am having the same problem with the brake applying itself when stopped at a light. Battery power says 100% when first starting the car then goes to 0% after about 30 seconds. Error message on display says "Battery Management Active / See Owner's Manual." There is nothing in the manual addressing this! I'm afraid to drive the car in fear of getting stuck somewhere. Battery voltage at terminals is 13.6 with engine off and 13.8 when running. Don't know where to go from here....

Open your trunk and remove the trunk liner to access your battery. Confirm the small one wire plug on top of your battery is fully connected... If that wire is not connected your car will misbehave in the manner you are describing... if you have a voltage meter you could probe the one wire and it should read approx 1-2 volts less than your voltage across your main battery terminals.

See both pics below...

203493



203494



If you discover you have the old style battery (three wires) then you should have the dealership reprogram your car to the "one wire" type setup (you can still keep your old battery)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
My 2012 12-C is at the dealer for the issue of the ebrake sticking on as I try to back out of garage for the first run of the day
Yet once car has been driven for over 10minutes the sticking stops
Dealer checked and voltage was low
So I need to plug
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
263 Posts
My 2012 12-C is at the dealer for the issue of the ebrake sticking on as I try to back out of garage for the first run of the day
Yet once car has been driven for over 10minutes the sticking stops
Dealer checked and voltage was low
So I need to plug
so I need to plug in charger more often if car will be not driven for several days
The tech told me the brake system requires a higher level of voltage than my battery was showing in the morning after sitting all night not plugged into trickle charger
I have a lead acid battery and had dealer reprogram for it when it I had it installed a year ago
Also I am going to replace it with a new lead acid battery when I get it back from the dealer
 

·
Premium Member
2012 "Swipe" MP4-12C
Joined
·
675 Posts
Use the Antigravity Lithium Ion battery! I have one for several months and it is less than a third of the McLaren battery for 800.00. As long as your McLaren has been reprogrammed for the new style battery (or a lead acid battery) it will eliminate your issues. :)

model# AG-H7-RS (40AH)
203506




203507
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Had this issue.... dealer replaced brake lever under warranty.... never happened again. 🤷🏻‍♂️
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Open your trunk and remove the trunk liner to access your battery. Confirm the small one wire plug on top of your battery is fully connected... If that wire is not connected your car will misbehave in the manner you are describing... if you have a voltage meter you could probe the one wire and it should read approx 1-2 volts less than your voltage across your main battery terminals.

See both pics below...

View attachment 203493


View attachment 203494


If you discover you have the old style battery (three wires) then you should have the dealership reprogram your car to the "one wire" type setup (you can still keep your old battery)
I found that I have the single wire plug. Not sure what the other plug with the cut off wire is but it was laying behind the battery not being used. I checked the tightness of the single wire plug. Seems OK. Voltage @ battery is 13.1 (hasn't been driven for 6 days) and voltage @ single wire plug is 11.8 which is close to what you suggested I might find. When I start it the voltage goes to 13.7 but climbs very slowly. The car idles fast for a little bit then drops down to the normal (parked) idle speed. After aprox. 30 sec. the idle picks up as if the car were put into gear and the voltage does not change with the idle speed. This is when the dash display usually says something about Battery ? Active See Owner Manual and the battery voltage (on dash) says 0. This time the error message did not show up but battery voltage said 0. The voltage at the battery terminal is still slowly climbing. It stops at around 14.2v then lowers back down to a steady 13.87v. I tried releasing the parking break but it would only stay off for a few seconds then reapply itself. The car is 2015 but as you can see the battery is a 2016. The dealer is supposed to pick the car up tomorrow 6/30 to do some service work and troubleshoot my problem. I'm worried they will just replace the battery because it is easy for them. Is there anything else I can do before they pick it up? I hate to buy a battery if I don't need one. I would really like to trust them but I have had no experience with this dealership (McLaren of Beverly Hills). Thanks again for all your input!
Battery Details.jpg
McLaren Battery.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
2012 "Swipe" MP4-12C
Joined
·
675 Posts
On the Antigravity Battery you leave the single wire disconnected. The only down side is when you start the car, you will have a Battery Management warning message. You can clear the message by simply pressing the button on the end of the left hand steering wheel stalk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
I found that I have the single wire plug. Not sure what the other plug with the cut off wire is but it was laying behind the battery not being used. I checked the tightness of the single wire plug. Seems OK. Voltage @ battery is 13.1 (hasn't been driven for 6 days) and voltage @ single wire plug is 11.8 which is close to what you suggested I might find. When I start it the voltage goes to 13.7 but climbs very slowly. The car idles fast for a little bit then drops down to the normal (parked) idle speed. After aprox. 30 sec. the idle picks up as if the car were put into gear and the voltage does not change with the idle speed. This is when the dash display usually says Battery Management Active See Owners Manual and the battery voltage (on dash) says 0. This time the error message did not show up but battery voltage said 0. The voltage at the battery terminal is still slowly climbing. It stops at around 14.2v then lowers back down to a steady 13.87v. I tried releasing the parking break but it would only stay off for a few seconds then reapply itself. The car is 2015 but as you can see in the pic,the battery is a 2016. The dealer is supposed to pick the car up to do some service work and troubleshoot my problem. I'm worried they will just replace the battery because it is easy for them. Is there anything else I can do before they pick it up? I hate to buy a battery if I don't need one. I would really like to trust them but I have had no experience with this dealership (McLaren of Beverly Hills). Thanks again for all your input!
McLaren Battery.jpg
Battery Details.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Sorry for being repetitive but after all my findings are you suggesting that I need to replace the battery?
 

·
Premium Member
2012 "Swipe" MP4-12C
Joined
·
675 Posts
Sorry for being repetitive but after all my findings are you suggesting that I need to replace the battery?
If the battery have voltage on the 1 wire plug (approx 1-2 volts less than the voltage across the main battery terminals) then the battery is functioning correctly.

I would believe the problem your having is elsewhere, and not the battery...


As an idea, The dealer could always swap a new battery in for a few minutes to confirm if that would solve the problem. You should not be obligated to purchase the new battery especially if it does not correct your issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Great point! I haven't heard back from them yet but I will suggest the swap idea. I'll be sure to post the results to help others that may have a similar problem. Thank you!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Update: Just got a call from the dealer today. He said they did a reset on the battery which is to run it down completely and then charge it up to full capacity with their "special" $6000 battery charger specifically used with McLaren Iithium batteries. The problem has been fixed according to them. Hope they are correct. Who woulda thunk...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
One more thing... I forgot to mention the pic that I posted above with the random plug. You'll notice that the battery installed is a 2016 and the car is a 2015. There had been an upgrade done on the car and there was supposed to be a wire harness change done with that upgrade. Well, it wasn't replaced. That's why the random plug not being used. They have since corrected this as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
I did some experimenting with my 600 this weekend. If I did not fasten my seat bet, parking brake would not go off on its own. It did disengage when I fasten my seat belt. Just one data point.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Use the Antigravity Lithium Ion battery! I have one for several months and it is less than a third of the McLaren battery for 800.00. As long as your McLaren has been reprogrammed for the new style battery (or a lead acid battery) it will eliminate your issues. :)

model# AG-H7-RS (40AH)
View attachment 203506



View attachment 203507
Does this battery work with the battery indicator on the dash?
 
41 - 60 of 61 Posts
Top