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Quick latch update. I got one of the model X latch's in. Looks like it has the provision for a 2nd cable but I can't see how to remove the insides to add the 2nd lever. Anyone have insight on how to pull the mechanism out?
201125
 

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Quick latch update. I got one of the model X latch's in. Looks like it has the provision for a 2nd cable but I can't see how to remove the insides to add the 2nd lever. Anyone have insight on how to pull the mechanism out? View attachment 201125
I haven't taken mine apart yet but I will sometime this week, maybe tomorrow, it's not awful outside today so I gotta take advantage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Quick latch update. I got one of the model X latch's in. Looks like it has the provision for a 2nd cable but I can't see how to remove the insides to add the 2nd lever. Anyone have insight on how to pull the mechanism out? View attachment 201125
The "pins" you circled in red are not designed to never be removed because most of them have a spring (with tension!) wound around them. So that is a "no-go" solution.

Seeing the inside of this TESLA door latch tells me the driver side TESLA latch will technically work, but I'm afraid you will be choosing to exclude the 2nd cable going to the physical key mechanism to unlock the door in a no-electricity emergency. FWI - Even if you could operate the physical key in a no-power event, you still are at risk to break the window when opening the door! So the key really is useless without having any battery power anyway! (And it always has been....)

I would suggest I would be 100% comfortable using the Tesla Latch, and excluding the McLaren 2nd cable for the physical key "IF" you add a battery charging pigtail wired directly to your battery and have it accessible either in one of the front wheel wheels or maybe even in the front bumper radiator air duct. I like the radiator air duct idea since the plastic grill pieces just snap off to allow you access to reach in and clean out the radiators from time to time.
 

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I believe that is right that they are not intended to be removed. Regarding the lack of power the car is suppose to drop the window a bit before the battery dies so the lock can work without damaging the glass. I would like to maintain this feature - so may need to get the McLaren version for the drivers door unless someone can model a easy solution for your battery leads which would be good to have regardless to not have to take apart the entire frunk.
 

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I believe that is right that they are not intended to be removed. Regarding the lack of power the car is suppose to drop the window a bit before the battery dies so the lock can work without damaging the glass. I would like to maintain this feature - so may need to get the McLaren version for the drivers door unless someone can model a easy solution for your battery leads which would be good to have regardless to not have to take apart the entire frunk.
I guess that means it will take me a little longer to figure it out, I too would like to retain that feature.
 

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I may start w passenger door and see how that goes. If this could be disassembled you could take the second lever from the old mcallen unit and it looks like it would be a direct swap. Only issue is it does not look like it can easily be disassembled. Would have to fig out how to remove those pins and keep all the springs in tact.
 

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FUEL FILLER DOOR LATCH - (these break all the time)

Mclaren is charging nearly 40.00 for this part!

I bought one and looked at all the markings on the part. Let’s find the actual manufacturer and buy it for 10% of the McLaren Price!

Here is the part out of my 12C…
View attachment 199767


I know it is functionally a “latch” and the only marking on the part is “PR-3”, and I also know what it looks like… Lets go to GOOGLE and start our search.
View attachment 199768


On the first try I already found a match! (this is lucky… It is not always this easy)

Looks Like it is:

Sugatsune Part# "PR-3PK" Non-Magnetic Touch Latch Black


And a place called “HomeDecoreHardware.com” (no affiliation) has it for just over 2.00 each! And they had a 3 pack at 5.28. Fantastic!
View attachment 199769
Really appreciate the help that this provides! I am wondering if anyone knows of an affordable replacement for the fuel filler door lock actuator which seems to have failed in my 12C. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you, John
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Really appreciate the help that this provides! I am wondering if anyone knows of an affordable replacement for the fuel filler door lock actuator which seems to have failed in my 12C. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you, John

Seems your the first person (at least on the forum) that has the fuel door lock actuator in a failed position.

- First check to be sure the electrical connector is firmly attached, it might just be unplugged! :)
-Second, if it still does not work. You will need to remove the part and examine any part numbers, manufacturer logo's, etc. to determine what other vehicles this part will cross reference with... You can post/share pictures once it's out and we can all help to find a suitable match from another vehicle.

I just searched eBay and Google but did not find anything... AGAIN you seem to be the 1st person who needs this part...


I "believe" the correct part number is below, but I have no pictures to confirm:

11A4405CP ASSY-PIN-ACTUATOR-FUEL FILLER


So please remove the part and take some pictures, then we can find the solution.

Cheers!
 

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We are in the process of buying a 650S and it will not come with a trickle charger. Is there an acceptable CTEK replacement or do I need to pay the ~$300+ for the McLaren-issue charger?
 

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I use Ctek 56-926 lithium. It is $96. Works perfect. I have read on here that Ctek is who makes the McLaren charger so it's oem equivalent. Also purchased 56-304 extension cable for 12$ and 56-263 cigar outlet adapter for 10$. This combination plugs right into the socket in the frunk as the oem charger, all for 118$.
 

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We are in the process of buying a 650S and it will not come with a trickle charger. Is there an acceptable CTEK replacement or do I need to pay the ~$300+ for the McLaren-issue charger?
Any lithium charger will work, but a charger isn't needed if you bought the car to drive it instead of look at it. I have yet to use mine.
 
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
We are in the process of buying a 650S and it will not come with a trickle charger. Is there an acceptable CTEK replacement or do I need to pay the ~$300+ for the McLaren-issue charger?
The McLaren Charger is actually a re-branded CTEK unit. Buy the CTEK for 100.00 and you will be all set. :)
 

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I use Ctek 56-926 lithium. It is $96. Works perfect. I have read on here that Ctek is who makes the McLaren charger so it's oem equivalent. Also purchased 56-304 extension cable for 12$ and 56-263 cigar outlet adapter for 10$. This combination plugs right into the socket in the frunk as the oem charger, all for 118$.
This is awesome, thanks!
 
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