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One last Item Azure Blue paint code is B96P Erternal Blue effect from a early 2000's Honda S2000. This was verified both via color scanner and through repainting the front bumper with no blend needed. Touch up paint from honda is perfect as well. Chemistry is different but if your doing a panel or need touch up this particular color is easy.
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This is awesome about the latches. I would want to maintain the ability however to get in if battery dies.

If someone can do a video DIY that would maybe give me the confidence to try and swap.
 

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Also when looking online it seems some latches have 10 pins in the connector vs. some with only 4 pins. Anyone know the difference? If your car has the 10 pin will it accept the 4 pin?
 

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Also when looking online it seems some latches have 10 pins in the connector vs. some with only 4 pins. Anyone know the difference? If your car has the 10 pin will it accept the 4 pin?
Edit- stated below it is possible to plug both 12 and 4 pin styles into the same connector. I did not try this as I swapped my 12pin part for the 4pin part to match what I removed from the car.
 

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No. I just swapped mine. I have a 4 pin connector on my late 2012 12c coupe. No way you could use the 10pin latch on my car. I had to return a 10pin one I bought before I removed the bad one from my car. Not sure how to find out what you have without disassembly.
Interesting. Wonder which cars got the 10pin vs. 4pin. I have a late model '12 12C as well. Mind sharing what your last # of vin is - curious how close mine is in production. Or how hard is it to check - is it difficult to get to that plug - haven't seen good pictures on how to get to the latch itself other than the descriptions.
 

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You basically have to do the whole job to get at the plug. Vin 1759.

I only did the passenger side and it's quite easy. That would be the side to take apart to check if need be. I read that the driver's side is much more involved.
 

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You basically have to do the whole job to get at the plug. Vin 1759.
The question is, which came first, the 4 or the 12? I'm VIN 362, and I just might be taking mine apart tomorrow.
 

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Cool - thanks everyone. @Jtwhite312 - Thanks for confirming the 12 pin can go into the new 4 pin.
@EMF Audio - you did an amazing job w your oil change video. If you can do the same for this that would be awesome!!

I really want to do this now. Just a matter of buying the parts. I like the idea of model x part - but would 100% want to make sure driver latch can be opened externally.
 

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I would suggest this approach buy both sets of parts and either pay a restocking fee for the mclaren Latta or put them on EBay. I bet you could get 80-90% on the dollar for new in the box parts sold world wide. That way you could ensure you only did the project once.
 

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Also don’t be afraid to cut the outside release cable. I’m not a fan of hack work but I’ve yet to see one that actually worked well and 3 of the 4 I’ve touched didn’t work at all. A charging lead Discreetly hidden will do exactly the same thing and save 1-2 hours of pointless crappy work in a cramped space.
 

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Cool - thanks everyone. @Jtwhite312 - Thanks for confirming the 12 pin can go into the new 4 pin.
@EMF Audio - you did an amazing job w your oil change video. If you can do the same for this that would be awesome!!

I really want to do this now. Just a matter of buying the parts. I like the idea of model x part - but would 100% want to make sure driver latch can be opened externally.
I would be doing the same kind of video for this project, using the Model X latches and making the necessary modifications for the cable release.

Also don’t be afraid to cut the outside release cable. I’m not a fan of hack work but I’ve yet to see one that actually worked well and 3 of the 4 I’ve touched didn’t work at all. A charging lead Discreetly hidden will do exactly the same thing and save 1-2 hours of pointless crappy work in a cramped space.
I've never pulled one, but I know they work on my friends 675LT he bought wrecked. It's his only option at the moment as it came without a battery installed.

There are a few other installs on the forum I was going to do a write up but lost most of the pics. Easier than it looks just use a heat gun to loosen the plastic block off plate. Without heat it will break or drive you crazy.
The whole reason I end up doing the videos I do is finding threads with partial information, dead links, missing pictures, incomplete, etc. I gather info from those threads and put it in 1 solid video that will never have missing components and figure out what I have to figure out.
 
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Discussion Starter · #36 · (Edited)
Here is HOW you attached the manual key release cable on the driver side (Left Hand Drive cars) WITHOUT removing or replacing the existing cable.

* Be sure to look at the next 3 posts in the link below for more pictures of the process.




It sounds like the Tesla latches are the same internally as the McLaren latches, you would only need to add a small cut out with a dremel or similar tool for the manual key release cable to pass thru. Should be easy enough!
 

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It sounds like the Tesla latches are the same internally as the McLaren latches, you would only need to add a small cut out with a dremel or similar tool for the manual key release cable to pass thru. Should be easy enough!
I'll be including that in my video. I bought a pair of claiming to be used but "almost new" latches last night for $107 shipped. When will I get them? We'll see how fast they go cross country.
 
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I just ordered a set off eBay as well. Will take pics / video also to help document and report back. Hopefully this works. :)
 
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