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P11 cars (12C, 650S, 675LT) – INTERCHANGABLE PARTS GUIDE - DIY FIX IT YOURSELF

46943 Views 110 Replies 31 Participants Last post by  ima2nr (McMedics)
This thread will be a place to share resources and information regarding replacement parts and or equivalent parts from other vehicle brands to maintain and repair any P11 Super Series McLaren for PENNIES ON THE DOLLAR. (MP4-12C, 12C, 625, 650S, 675LT)


A quick introduction about myself:

I am a sports and exotic car dealer, but also a professional mechanic by trade. Basically, this means I have a perpetual rotation of every kind of sports & exotic cars at my disposal, but I am also responsible to keep all of them all in top running condition.

Because of my career I have been blessed enough to have owned and/or driven nearly every sports & exotic car imaginable over the past 30 years. In the past 4 years I’ve personally been a MclarenLife member and I've owned six different McLaren's which I have accumulated over 25k miles between them. As you can imagine I’ve experienced many of the issues these cars have and I have successfully repaired all of them myself for pennies on the dollar.

The value of these experiences shared here will be in what I’ve learned when these vehicles have needed maintenance, repairs, and even full restorations.


The TRUTH – Automobile manufactures of all different brands source common parts from the same groups of suppliers. This not only saves them in research and development costs, but it also saves time by using something that is already in existence and has been proven in use.

Here is a great example: Ford, Mercedes, Ferrari, McLaren, Koenigsegg all build great cars… but Michelin, Pirelli, Goodyear, etc. all supply their tires.

Why reinvent the wheel, right? (or tire in this example)

But what most people don't think about is companies like BOSCH are the manufactures and supplies of many components like ECU's, switches, sensors, etc. that are used as the same part on several different brands of autos.


So, the GOOD NEWS for you and me is that spark plugs, ignition coils, sensors, latches, clamps, bolts, lubricants, fluids and a dozen other things can all be sourced at a fraction of the cost vs buying it through The Dealership.



Here is how I go about sourcing a part when something needs replacing.
  • Remove the part and inspect it closely for manufacture names, logos, part numbers, or other identification markings. Sometimes these are quite small, and you will need a magnifying glass or reading glasses to see everything.

  • Google Search every number or name on the part you need to replace. Some of the numbers are unique serial numbers for that one part and will yield nothing in a search. But other numbers are universal part numbers and you will find they will cross reference to many other automobile makes and models. (The same part sold with a VW part # is cheaper than the same part sold as a Porsche Part #)

  • If you only can find a manufactures name on the part, then Google search that. Go to the manufactures website and look for their catalogs. This takes a bit more effort, but in usually 30 min to an hour I can find the exact part needed and purchase it directly. Sometimes you are matching up partial part numbers, many times you are matching the item based on pictures and schematic drawings.

  • I also search eBay for used McLaren Parts for sale off salvage vehicles. Look at the pictures and you will get the same part numbers, manufacture logo's etch. Then google search that. This helps you find replacement parts BEFORE you actually remove the part on your own car.
EXAMPLE: A McLaren 12C has a Secondary Air Pump that visibly wears a Porsche part# (look behind the rear bumper, left hand/driver side). This part# cross references to the 986 Porsche Boxster (1996-2004)! YES… it is just a common Bosch Pump that can be bought anywhere for less than 100.00…. Sometimes finding a replacement equivalent is just as easy looking at the parts label.


I hope you save lots of money from the items shared in this thread! If you find something that has not been listed please share it here as well for the benefits of the community.

I will also add links to past threads that have information previously shared to bring all the information together.

I encourage other DIY McLaren owners to share and post here as well!

If you personally save some time or money with something you learn here, please honor that contributor with a “Thumbs up - like”! This lets them know that they are appreciated for taking the time to share what they have learned, sometimes the hard way.


My name is Kevin and I live in the Atlanta GA. I am always excited to talk cars, plus I'm available to work on and maintain your super-car as well. Just send me a PM.

Cheers!
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3
FUEL FILLER DOOR LATCH - (these break all the time)

Mclaren is charging nearly 40.00 for this part!

I bought one and looked at all the markings on the part. Let’s find the actual manufacturer and buy it for 10% of the McLaren Price!

Here is the part out of my 12C…
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I know it is functionally a “latch” and the only marking on the part is “PR-3”, and I also know what it looks like… Lets go to GOOGLE and start our search.
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On the first try I already found a match! (this is lucky… It is not always this easy)

Looks Like it is:

Sugatsune Part# "PR-3PK" Non-Magnetic Touch Latch Black


And a place called “HomeDecoreHardware.com” (no affiliation) has it for just over 2.00 each! And they had a 3 pack at 5.28. Fantastic!
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7
CENTER CONSOLE / STORAGE CUBBY LATCH

You cannot buy this latch individually from McLaren. You must buy the entire center console storage bin for over 2,000.00 – unacceptable!

Of course, my latch was busted so I took the part out and examined it closely… The manufacturer “SOUTHCO” was kind enough to put their logo on it for me. (I did have to use a magnifying glass to read it because it was so small)


Manufacturer: SOUTHCO
Part Number: C3-12-05
(this is the 5lb version)
Price: I found it for 7.94 at "Latchstore by Southco"

I found it like this...
I searched Google for "southco" - then I clicked on "products" and started looking around...
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On the Products page, I drilled down to "Latches"
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Then I found the category below that had a picture of the latch I removed from my car...
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And finally I found an exact match! (It is the "side-mount stye", the middle one in the picture below)
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Southco has three versions, the diffrences is the amount of pressure required to open/close the latch. 3lbs, 5lbs, or 12lbs of effort. (I bought the 5lb)
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Here is the actual Latch for your center console
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Cheers!
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TPMS - Tire Pressure Monitoring Sensors

I had a warning message that said "Fault - TPMS System Malfunction" every time I started my car. Yet my Tire Pressure info screen clearly displayed all 4 tires pressures and temperatures correctly.

I thought I must have a computer glitch and took the car to Mclaren for a diagnosis. I was informed the real issue was the batteries in my TPMS wheel sensors were low and I need to replace them. Basically it cost me 185.00 to learn the hard way "Fault - TPMS System Malfunction" really means my TPMS sensor batterys are low... why not just say THAT?

So, I jumped on the web and stumbled upon TPMS.com (no affiliation). It was quick and easy to search for my car and the price was very fair. (145.00 for 4 new sensors in the correct ‘gunmetal gray’ for my OEM superlight wheels)


Manufacturer: HUF Intellisens
Part: F1-100-1495-001 (433 MHZ)
Price: 35.00 each

I took all 4 of my new sensors to the local tire store and paid 100.00 to have them installed. No programming was required, the McLaren automatically recognized the new sensors and they work perfectly. Also, my warning message is gone with out an additional trip to the dealer.


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Thank you for threads like this. I am a mechanic and obviously prefer to do all my own work. Threads like these are a great help. It's refreshing to see posts like this after reading on here each day negative posts about the brand.
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Here is another one I was searching for today related to the coil packs. Credit to ima2nr for this one as well. Just trying to keep these consolidated for easier searching.

I believe the OEM McLaren Coil is a BOSCH part# 0 221 604 014 (these are the coils that were in my car)

I replaced them with the same spec Part # Delphi GN10325 Ignition Coil for around 22.00 each on Amazon (also found them on ebay same price)

FWIW - Delphi provides a 36 month or 36,000 mile warranty on ignition coils
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8
Thanks @smrtasp!

To add just a bit more regarding the coil packs...

Mclaren is asking 600.00+ per Ignition Coil! Due to the design of the rear hatch and cooling vents water easily can get into the sparkplug cavities and corrosion will set up on the spark plug tip and the connector of the Coil Pack ruining them both and causing random misfire codes.

This water intrusion happens mostly to the cylinder closest to the driver seat (cylinder #5). It can also happen to cars never driven in the rain because the water can still get in there when washing the vehicle.

These replacement Ignition Coil Packs are sourced from a Nissan Sentra 2.0L engine. Don't hate me for pointing it out! Actually, lets share our love with the engineers that decided to use these since they are so cheap and readily available!

NOTE: There are other brands that fit the same specification, but most do not have the FLEXIBLE COIL BOOT that is necessary to install in the tight confines of the McLaren engine bay.

Manufacturer: Delphi
Part Number: GN10325
Price: 60.00 each x8 - average (22.00 low – 250.00 high)

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And here is how I swap my spark plugs and Coil Packs...
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And here are the tools you will need to do the job (spark plugs and coil packs)
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And here is the cylinder locations and firing order. (the arrow points to the front of your car)
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Here are some pics of the result of water getting into the plug boot on cylinder #5, This caused multiple lmisfires and a check engine light in my 12C.

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It's interesting that the corrosion was mainly in the top of the coil pack boot.
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Radiator Cap

Your radiator cap is actually just a standard common Fiat part with a plastic cover on top. (see picture below)

You simply remove the cap off yours and put it back over the new Radiator cap.

I found this equivalent cap in the European Market for just 4.00 + shipping on ebay.com.

Manufacturer: Metzger
Part: 2140057
Price: 10.00

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@ima2nr.
which sparkplugs did you use?
tried finding them in the aftermarket but ngk does not sell them.
@ima2nr.
which sparkplugs did you use?
tried finding them in the aftermarket but ngk does not sell them.
There is no other equivalent to the McLaren sparkplug at this time.

I searched and found the closest match was for a Subaru WRX. That NGK plug was the same dimensions, but was listed as one heat range hotter.

I even purchased one to compare side by side against the McLaren plug, but since the price difference was only 7.00 per plug I decided not to chance it and to stick with the OEM plug for now.

You can find alot more details and Spark Plug part numbers on this thread:

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There are plugs with similar specs but heat range is not the same. Like you, I found that out last year.
Had to buy them from dealer.
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Fuel Pump Controller (McLaren Part# 11K0064CP)

You will probably never need this part, but this is a great example of the exact same part used between two different car manufactures. Check out the pictures below comparing the two parts side by side on ebay.

Manufacturer: Continental (Siemens VDO)
Part: WQM500020 (for a Range Rover)
Price: 275.00 new

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O-ring size: turbo oil drain


VAG/AUDI part no 026133557
I/D 17 mm x 2 mm
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ima2nr...AWESOME post. I feel like a fool as I just bought the gas cap latch you mention and even though the dealer gave me a discount, I still hate to tell you what I paid for it! And I was feeling pretty good about it because I was able to fix it myself and not go to dealer (thanks to other posts on here that showed how easy it was). Your efforts are huge for the DIYers and hopefully will make these cars more affordable to drive...which would then help them maintain their value. Thanks ima2nr!
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There is no other equivalent to the McLaren sparkplug at this time.

I searched and found the closest match was for a Subaru WRX. That NGK plug was the same dimensions, but was listed as one heat range hotter.

I even purchased one to compare side by side against the McLaren plug, but since the price difference was only 7.00 per plug I decided not to chance it and to stick with the OEM plug for now.

You can find alot more details and Spark Plug part numbers on this thread:

While not an exact replacement, a superior replacement is the NGK 1422, the cheapest I've found them (after shipping, including Prime shipping) NGK 1422 Spark Plug | RockAuto

The gap is a little bit tighter, which if you're tuned is necessary and I'm told even as a factory replacement is a better plug to use. When I did mine (I'm tuned) it solved my misfires but also idles smoother.
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Replacement BRAKE ROTORS and BRAKE PADS (incl the PARKING BRAKE PADS)


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Brake Rotors from Coleman Racing. Slotted not drilled just the otter rings. 650.00 for a pair delivered.
Call them direct.
Oil filter from WIX number 57695,
Cabin air filter WIX WP6900,
Hitachi Ignition Coil # ICG0002,
Centric E brake pads 102.09710,
Engine sump oil plug washer 24mm OD 18mm ID
Oil Tank Drain Washer 14mm ID 20MM OD.
Brake Pads Frodo FRP3084H, FRP3083H.

Camber adjustment on front . Morton FW-410 11mm IDx 22mmODx5mm thick or ARP 200-8689 3MM think Washers under mounts for lower control arms. Each 5mm is about a degree in Camber. Use new bolts that are longer with appropriate lube. ARP 672-1003 Bolts are 30mm long replacement to give same thread engagement and nearly twice as strong.

Grand Finale-Tesla Model X door latches replace the soft close latches for 75.00 each. You loose the secondary lockout key cable on the drivers side but about 5 min of work transfer the part from the original latch to the Model X latch. Soft Close for 150.00 not 1000.00

Oetiker Clamps Super high end Aerospace grade. Double check quantities
1780017=18-24mm you need 14 for the whole care
17800122= 22-28mm you need 10-12 (memory)
17800180= 49-60mm you need 4 i believe.

Pentisone FFL4 Fluid is exact same as dealer part.

Bulkhead to engine heater hose
Dayco 80413 from autozone.
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Grand Finale-Tesla Model X door latches replace the soft close latches for 75.00 each. You loose the secondary lockout key cable on the drivers side but about 5 min of work transfer the part from the original latch to the Model X latch. Soft Close for 150.00 not 1000.00
Do you have a part number? Do you see any way possible to modify it into accepting the cable? I'm a big fan of the idea of having the manual release there.
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Wow jt. That is a huge find with the latch. I wish I knew this last week. Just replaced my passenger side door latch with a non soft close for the cost of 2 Model X latches.

After a quick search on eBay for the model x latch linked below it is indeed the same connector and mounting points etc. I'm guessing this is what you used. Share pictures or part#'s of the confirmed working parts if you have them. Thank you.

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On the tesla latches
You still keep the inside emergency cable with no modifications. To add the outside cable you have to split the case on the latch and transfer the old lever into the new latch and grind a very small hole on the case to let he inner cable pass through. The same amount of effort could be spent adding a direct battery attached charging lead into either of the front fenders or front spoiler or even the front grill for a 10th the effort.This solves the getting in the car with a dead battery problem.

I believe the Model X front doors may have the extra cable provision already but then you will need to change cable lengths if i remember right. I just happen to be doing the swap in a garage that had a set laying around. They have different part numbers but they did indeed actuate and soft close. They come up on eBay all the time for way less than the 175.00 just put a search alert in place.
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