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There is a thing called aero lull and it is a funny thing to get your head wrapped around.

The very first outing for me with something that had reasonable downforce was a Cosworth Spice at Road Atlanta. I normally slowly work my way up to speed for a given corner then stop when things start to move a bit. I came down the hill, made the last corner accelerated, then went to brakes to downshift a few gears and turn into turn one. I slowly raised the speed until the car started to move.

Bob Akin was up on the pit wall watching one of his customers in the only other Cosworth Spice there that weekend. When the session was done, he came over to my pits and asked me about turn 1. I explained what I was doing, that I was new to downforce and was feeling my way through things. He made a suggestion that, instead of accelerating then braking on the front straight that I simply accelerate to the speed I wanted to turn into turn one, carry that speed down the straight and then turn in using the same approach of adding speed till I was comfortable.

The next session I did as instructed and at the previous 107 mph at the apex, the car was ok and did not move. At 110 it felt better. By the time the session was done, it was 124 mph at the apex.

Bob stopped back by and said that looked much better and I was now within a couple of miles an hour of his guy. I asked him what had happened and he explained aero lull.

If a car is set up for something close to useable downforce levels for a particular track, there are times where you can start sliding around in a corner going a bunch slower than the car will actually go through the corner. In this particular case, Bob said I was upsetting the chassis with all the downshifting and hard braking only to let off and turn in. By simply caring the previous turn in speed down the straight, all that troublesome drama was gone and the car was perfectly happy to turn in at that speed. This gave me the confidence to add more speed and drive through that transition where mechanical grip is not enough and speed is not yet there for the aero to carry you through. He taught me that sometimes you need to drive through an aero lull. Six events later, I was on the car much harder much quicker and never felt the lull.

A very similar thing happened at Road Atlanta several years later in my Shell ChampCar. Trying to learn how to get through the kink flat without killing myself. I will never be Montoya and do not trust my hands to catch oversteer at 170. The solution was to set the car up to aero push like a pig through the carousel so I had to wait on the wheel the whole way through adding as much throttle as I could. I then carried a little more speed to the turn in for the kink and, having just felt aero understeer, knew the back end would not come around. The wheel got a little lighter through a few laps adding a couple of miles an hour each time then started to get harder. By the time I was done, I was go through the kink at 172 mph at the apex and 3.2 lateral. The downforce was so great that I had to wedge myself in the tub to turn the wheel. A bud who ran one of the teams showed me Moreno data from a test day a few months earlier and he was going through at 175 mph. I was ok with that; close enough for me :)

Third spring set up was next and, as everyone says, brakes were the last to learn. Those were some fun times learn stuff I had always wanted to know about.
Interesting stuff! The bit about going into turn 1 is particularly interesting, the more aero a car has, I would guess the more susceptible it must be to an unsettled chassis, especially if you're relying on ground effect. That chassis feel is another interesting thing, some people seem to be naturally aware of it, others are completely oblivious even when you try to explain it when they're driving, they literally have no idea what you're talking about even when you can feel it as a passenger.
 

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Interesting stuff! The bit about going into turn 1 is particularly interesting, the more aero a car has, I would guess the more susceptible it must be to an unsettled chassis, especially if you're relying on ground effect. That chassis feel is another interesting thing, some people seem to be naturally aware of it, others are completely oblivious even when you try to explain it when they're driving, they literally have no idea what you're talking about even when you can feel it as a passenger.
I've got a reasonably good butt when it comes to driving and had little problem with my Chevron moving around under me. When I got into the faster stuff, I lacked the attachments to let the cars move much. As I moved up the ladder in hardware my lap times dropped and I left more and more on corner exit. Pure amateur hour but oh so much fun.
 

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I've got a reasonably good butt when it comes to driving and had little problem with my Chevron moving around under me. When I got into the faster stuff, I lacked the attachments to let the cars move much. As I moved up the ladder in hardware my lap times dropped and I left more and more on corner exit. Pure amateur hour but oh so much fun.
Haha, I'm the opposite, I like the car to move! I want to find out if that changes when I'm in a 4G corner!
 

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Discussion Starter · #165 ·
There is a thing called aero lull and it is a funny thing to get your head wrapped around.

The very first outing for me with something that had reasonable downforce was a Cosworth Spice at Road Atlanta. I normally slowly work my way up to speed for a given corner then stop when things start to move a bit. I came down the hill, made the last corner accelerated, then went to brakes to downshift a few gears and turn into turn one. I slowly raised the speed until the car started to move.

Bob Akin was up on the pit wall watching one of his customers in the only other Cosworth Spice there that weekend. When the session was done, he came over to my pits and asked me about turn 1. I explained what I was doing, that I was new to downforce and was feeling my way through things. He made a suggestion that, instead of accelerating then braking on the front straight that I simply accelerate to the speed I wanted to turn into turn one, carry that speed down the straight and then turn in using the same approach of adding speed till I was comfortable.

The next session I did as instructed and at the previous 107 mph at the apex, the car was ok and did not move. At 110 it felt better. By the time the session was done, it was 124 mph at the apex.

Bob stopped back by and said that looked much better and I was now within a couple of miles an hour of his guy. I asked him what had happened and he explained aero lull.

If a car is set up for something close to useable downforce levels for a particular track, there are times where you can start sliding around in a corner going a bunch slower than the car will actually go through the corner. In this particular case, Bob said I was upsetting the chassis with all the downshifting and hard braking only to let off and turn in. By simply caring the previous turn in speed down the straight, all that troublesome drama was gone and the car was perfectly happy to turn in at that speed. This gave me the confidence to add more speed and drive through that transition where mechanical grip is not enough and speed is not yet there for the aero to carry you through. He taught me that sometimes you need to drive through an aero lull. Six events later, I was on the car much harder much quicker and never felt the lull.

A very similar thing happened at Road Atlanta several years later in my Shell ChampCar. Trying to learn how to get through the kink flat without killing myself. I will never be Montoya and do not trust my hands to catch oversteer at 170. The solution was to set the car up to aero push like a pig through the carousel so I had to wait on the wheel the whole way through adding as much throttle as I could. I then carried a little more speed to the turn in for the kink and, having just felt aero understeer, knew the back end would not come around. The wheel got a little lighter through a few laps adding a couple of miles an hour each time then started to get harder. By the time I was done, I was go through the kink at 172 mph at the apex and 3.2 lateral. The downforce was so great that I had to wedge myself in the tub to turn the wheel. A bud who ran one of the teams showed me Moreno data from a test day a few months earlier and he was going through at 175 mph. I was ok with that; close enough for me :)

Third spring set up was next and, as everyone says, brakes were the last to learn. Those were some fun times learning stuff I had always wanted to know about.
great post Lola as always...

its always interseting to hear other peoples experiences..

most aero cars are very pitch sensitive for obvious reasons, so the trick it seems is to keep the aero platform as stable as possible so that you have the max grip available rather than variable levels, whihc might be akin to the lull that you talk about.. if you approach faster speed corners and take a brake, rather than perhaps lifiting off (a little earlier) the car doesn't pitch as much and the car will always be more settled and faster..
 

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great post Lola as always...

its always interseting to hear other peoples experiences..

most aero cars are very pitch sensitive for obvious reasons, so the trick it seems is to keep the aero platform as stable as possible so that you have the max grip available rather than variable levels, whihc might be akin to the lull that you talk about.. if you approach faster speed corners and take a brake, rather than perhaps lifiting off (a little earlier) the car doesn't pitch as much and the car will always be more settled and faster..
MB, thank you for the kind words.

I do not think I ever got close enough to aero grip limits to work with platform stability. The differences on top speed for my Chevy Spice as I ran it here and how those on your side of the pond ran it speak to the downforce levels I carried which hid all of that stuff.

I was simply initially driving the car too slow at a speed knowledgable drivers would avoid. The result was declining mechanical grip while not yet having sufficient aero grip.

This problem was significant in my early Indy/ChampCar days. I ran my 95 Firestone car without third springs requiring the primary dampers/springs to support ride height at speed. I had to run 1800 to 2200 lb/in springs IIRC just to keep the tub from grinding into the ground at the end of the straights which killed mechanical grip. I had a bunch of 3rd spring stuff for my 99 Lola which let me drop primary spring rates to the 1000 to 1300 lb/in range. The change in low speed mechanical grip was phenomenal and gone was that light switch lack of feel transition from stuck to unstuck :0

For those not familiar, 3rd or heave springs are a way to decouple the primary spring/dampers from supporting the chassis under high downforce loads.
The spring in the middle is on the order of 3000 to 4000 lb-in. When both the right and left wheel rockers rotate together as the chassis is pushed down from aero load, the links to the sway bar move together which works to compress the 3rd spring. Once the 3rd spring "lands", the total spring rate for the front of the car goes way up.

The above has two positive effects. The first is that you can run much softer primary springs which dramatically increases mechanical grip. The second, and less obvious, is that the car "blows down" at a much lower speed as you are compressing softer primary springs. There is a big difference in aero performance as the chassis moves towards the ground. In the case of the nose, the static ride height was .75" and the tub was skipping on the jabroc skid plates at 195 mph. Using the 3rd spring lets you get the tub closer to the ground sooner which brings in the aero sooner. My 95 went from having huge aero lull gaps at many a corner to the 99 have zero issues.

The tough part about setting up the 3rd springs front and rear are (1) making sure you are not on them or transitioning to them in the fastest corners on the track and (2) making sure you land the front first so, at worst, you would have an aero push and not an aero loose situation to contend with. To do this, you have to add push rod strain gauge instrumentation to the car so you can compare push rod loads to calculated primary spring loads (from spring travel times spring rate). The primary and push rod loads will overlay well right up until you land on the third spring at which point the pushrod loads will increase with aero while the primary spring loads almost level off.

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One slightly related humorous note. I was at Road America when a guy showed up with Andretti's track lap record holding Switfs and the Newman Haas crew that ran the car in the day. I walked up to the car, stuck my toes under the underwing and was concerned about his ride height. I mentioned it to his crew chief and the owner who were standing near by and was quickly informed that they were the experts and that I had weeds growing behind my ears. Ok.

They promptly went out for the very first session. Ran the entire session and went through the jabroc skid plate, the outer skin, the aluminum honeycomb and were almost through the inner skin to the fuel cell by the time the car got back to the pits.

The crew chief asked around, found were I was pitted and came over to ask why I made the comments I did and what ride heights I was running. Goodyear was the only provider of historic IndyCar tires. The Indy side had shut down and the molds were turned over to the sportscar side of the house and they were using a different side wall construction. Fully 50% of my tub travel was the result of side wall compression which I learned from comparing primary spring compression to tub movement. I tried to tell the guys that the sidewalls would compress a lot more than what they knew from running the car in the day but they had to learn the hard way.

All this set up stuff is really simple physics and not rocket science. The tough part is that no one that knows will talk about it. I distinctly remember having a conversation with Rocky Rocquelin while he was still at NH Racing trying to get him to provide at least the basics of how a ChampCar worked and purely for running my own cars in historic racing. He literally could not say a word as he was so locked down with NDAs. I was asking for clarification about basic set up information from the Lola Aero documentation for a car that was ten years old and he could not say a word. Bummer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #167 ·
yeah running without a 3rd element would make it complicated.. we can in certain circumstances make it work in lower downforce configurations, but the compromise can be large and slow speed performance is always an issue..

its very true though that finding an engineer who is willing to discuss setup and potential adjustments is very hard.. in race paddocks teams guard their setups with great care.. its understandable.. making the car go faster is what its all about...

but what is incredible is when you come in from a test, tell the engineer whats the matter with the car, he or she says okay noted, and then you go out next time and voila, the things that needed fixing are fixed.. sorcery almost..
 
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