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I need to make one correction: after checking the boxes I noticed that I have been driving with Raybestos as well.

In regular use I have the odd squeak at a traffic light but it is indeed a lot less now after having done a few track days.
I'm now checking out if the Cobalts can also be supplied in the Netherlands because I might want to give them a try.
 
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No squeak on track for me with either Raybestos "Endurance" or Cobalt XR2.

The Cobalts definitely get squeaky with street use after they scrape off the residual pad deposits left from track use (rotors start to look really shiny again). It can be quite annoying to be "that guy" with the race brake squeak at stop lights. A day at the track stops it for awhile.

I haven't driven the car on the street enough yet with the Raybestos since the last track day...so no input there yet. But for sure no squeak on the track.

BTW, I disagree with your assertion that the Raybestos are "drilled down by hand". It is very clearly a machining operation, as the pattern for the mounting tabs and the pad wear indicator are very intricate. The only thing that appears to be done by hand is a quick skim of the back to be certain of a flat surface when mounting on the mill for the edge-shaping operation.
Really glad to hear that you don't have the same issue. I'm a computer scientist, and don't know much about what goes into machining metal. I shouldn't have made a comment.

Maybe I had a bad/defective back-plate or I just installed it improperly.

Side note: I installed it with without shims, as I didn't receive any with the breaks and the OEM CC break shims were much too large. I'm curious if either of you received some shims, or you just mount it directly using the metal back-plate as I did. I replaced the bracket & pins when I did the install on both sides. The bracket could be the issue as well, although that's an OE McLaren part. The only thing that makes me suspicious is the difference in noise between the right & left.

Also keeping in mind that I was on the sprint pads which it sounds like nobody else on here has used.

Thanks again unmac & AWH for your help w/ this. I'll report back once I receive the XR2s.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Maybe I had a bad/defective back-plate or I just installed it improperly.

Side note: I installed it with without shims, as I didn't receive any with the breaks and the OEM CC break shims were much too large. I'm curious if either of you received some shims, or you just mount it directly using the metal back-plate as I did. I replaced the bracket & pins when I did the install on both sides. The bracket could be the issue as well, although that's an OE McLaren part. The only thing that makes me suspicious is the difference in noise between the right & left.
Racing pads don't typically use shims. That's a noise control thing for street use.

You may not have gotten the OE tension spring bracket installed correctly. It's easy to get those cocked a little.
 

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Just a couple of stories that may or may not be relevant to Ian or others.

Up until recently, I had never changed the brake pads myself. I would never know if they had been installed correctly. I always had the dealer change them but then started to get other race shops to install them. I have never had any issue with this process.

However, many months ago a person messaged me through the forums and asked me to check the install of the pins on my pads (he has the exact same set up and had a third party shop install them). The lower pin had completely fell off and the upper pin had dislodged from the caliper and was not in place. He said that he felt this on track (he sent me a picture of it too). The changing of pads and installing them is quite difficult on the Mac's and hard to get right and people can take shortcuts. Basically, the person who installed the pads didn't hammer the pins all the way and the pins weren't showing through the outer part of the caliper (thats the only way you know if the pads have been installed correctly). it is actually very difficult to get this right if you are not underneath the car.

Anyways, I was able to learn how to change the pads during this covid time (watched thorney video, some other videos and had some of my friends come over and help me. I realized that one might not do this correctly and could take shortcuts.

Fast forward to about one week ago. One of my friends with a 720s had a race shop install his pads. He doesn't know if it is done correctly or not. I, immediately saw that the pins were not hammered into the calipers correctly and were not coming out of the outside part of the caliper. Basically, it wasn't hammered in all the way.

The brake calipers on the rear of the car have less distance between the inner and outer part of the caliper vs the front part. You can just hammer the pin from the rear without using a pin punch tool. The head of the pin does not go all the way into the caliper and will still make it to the outside of the caliper.

However, the front caliper has a wider distance between the inner and outer part of the caliper. One needs to use the pin punch tool to hammer the pin into the caliper so that it comes to the other side. This can be a very frustrating experience because you are hitting it blind in a very narrow space.

The added complexity is the tension screw and the anti rattle bracket. You can try putting those two in first and then try to hammer the pins in. However, the pads might not be lined up perfectly for the pins to slide through. Then you have to unscrew the tension part and try to put in the pins and then try the tension part again. it can get difficult and time consuming.

If you can see the pins outside of the outer part of the caliper and the anti rattle bracket is installed and the tension screw is bolted in then you shouldn't have any issue with the squeal related to the install.

The picture below is not done correctly (this was myself doing it on the front calpers). You cannot see the pin coming out from the left side of the caliper and you can see the head still outside of the caliper. I did eventually get it right but its something to be aware of for those who are getting someone else to install them and for you to check to see if it was done correctly.

203897
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
However, the front caliper has a wider distance between the inner and outer part of the caliper. One needs to use the pin punch tool to hammer the pin into the caliper so that it comes to the other side. This can be a very frustrating experience because you are hitting it blind in a very narrow space.
Turn the wheel to full lock to expose the rear of the caliper. Much easier.
 

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unmac & AWH thank you for the help.

My pins are all the way through, but I'm convinced the tension bracket is a bit twisted on that noisy side. I'm eager to replace it, but both Beverly hills & Newport beach McLaren now claim that I can only order the bracket as a set with the pads (the carbon break pads). That would be some serious $$.

Weird since they let me purchase the pins standalone maybe 7 months ago. Maybe this change in policy is designed to keep us from running aftermarket breaks or doing service outside McLaren.

Has anyone ever had to replace their tension bracket? I wish there was a place we could order it from AP racing directly.
 

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Just so we are on the same page. The tension bracket is with the arrow pointing above?

fwiw; in my learning experience of changing pads, I found it difficult to get the pins in and the tension bracket (arrow pointing up) along with the screw in the middle that holds it in place. I would get the pins in but couldn't get the bracket in properly, then try it the other way.

Finally, I asked around of whether the tension bracket was a necessary safety item to hold the pads. I was told "no" and that it was just to prevent possible rattles. Therefore, I do not have it on one of my pads. I listened very carefully to see if the brakes made any different noise in regular driving and I couldn't hear it.

Keep in mind that I'm a newbie in the mechanical side of things and just started to change the pads myself. In determining whether It was ok to keep the tension bracket off and determine whether there was enough safety systems to prevent the pads from dislodging, I determined that if the pins fell out then the bolt in the middle of the calipers would still prevent the pads from falling out backwards and the pistons themselves would also hold the pads in place and that the tension bracket wasn't a needed items in itself although it could also be a secondary safety system as it is held tight against the back of the pads. (anyones thoughts on this would be appreciated).

My dealer did give me an extra set of pins (no cost and I didn't have to buy anything). However, I do know someone on the boards who had lost one of his pins that wasn't put through the caliper correctly. He said that his servicing dealer made him buy a front set of OEM pads to get the pins. (he has the same brake set up as we do on this thread).
 
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Just so we are on the same page. The tension bracket is with the arrow pointing above?

fwiw; in my learning experience of changing pads, I found it difficult to get the pins in and the tension bracket (arrow pointing up) along with the screw in the middle that holds it in place. I would get the pins in but couldn't get the bracket in properly, then try it the other way.

Finally, I asked around of whether the tension bracket was a necessary safety item to hold the pads. I was told "no" and that it was just to prevent possible rattles. Therefore, I do not have it on one of my pads. I listened very carefully to see if the brakes made any different noise in regular driving and I couldn't hear it.

Keep in mind that I'm a newbie in the mechanical side of things and just started to change the pads myself. In determining whether It was ok to keep the tension bracket off and determine whether there was enough safety systems to prevent the pads from dislodging, I determined that if the pins fell out then the bolt in the middle of the calipers would still prevent the pads from falling out backwards and the pistons themselves would also hold the pads in place and that the tension bracket wasn't a needed items in itself although it could also be a secondary safety system as it is held tight against the back of the pads. (anyones thoughts on this would be appreciated).

My dealer did give me an extra set of pins (no cost and I didn't have to buy anything). However, I do know someone on the boards who had lost one of his pins that wasn't put through the caliper correctly. He said that his servicing dealer made him buy a front set of OEM pads to get the pins. (he has the same brake set up as we do on this thread).
Crap, well then I'm torn. I want to support McLaren & the dealerships, but those front pads would be useless to me. I wish they just let me buy only what I needed, but made it cheaper to buy them as a bundle. Thank you! I will try without the bracket at some point too, I was just worried without that tension pushing the pads in, they would bounce around.
 

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The tension spring is there for a reason.!
They keep the pads from rattling ,moving and wearing the caliper and pistons.
Do not muck around with braking system.
Contact AP directly, they should be able to sell you just these.
Similar story a while back about the bleeder rubber caps. Mclaren only sells them with the bleeder for something like $180 or so iirc.
AP sells just the cap for about $3.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Crap, well then I'm torn. I want to support McLaren & the dealerships, but those front pads would be useless to me. I wish they just let me buy only what I needed, but made it cheaper to buy them as a bundle. Thank you! I will try without the bracket at some point too, I was just worried without that tension pushing the pads in, they would bounce around.
Check with these guys...they are parting out that 720S that rolled in the pics. I got a sensor from that car.

Car Categories McLaren Archive | Exotic Auto Recycling

And/or contact forum member XPRD. He has sources for both used and new parts....direct from the UK.

And finally...I seriously doubt you damaged the tension spring itself. It's easy to get it in there cocked, but you just need to take it apart and redo it.
 

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The difference in thickness from P1 OEM pad and Cobalt pad (used on 600 LT/720s). Off the top of my head; P1 pad brand new is about 5 mm. The cobalt one is 15 mm.

204066
 

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I have ordered Endless RE-10 pads to work with Girodisc rotors for 720s
This is getting interesting: when I inquired about the current brake pads that Girodisc could supply I was told that they now deliver their own branded pads. They did not disclose who makes them but indicated that they are manufactured in Japan. I decided to order a set because I expected to be needing a new pair soon. When they got delivered my engineer who also did the intial Girodisc conversion (Madeno Racing) said he was 99% sure that these are Endless endurance pads! I forgot to take a picture before mounting them, but this is the label on the box:
205402


They were mounted last week and I haven't been on track since. On the road (just playing around a bit on quiet back streets) they behave superbly. They are a bit more progressive than the Raybestos and seem to have at least the same grippy power when pushing through. However, I haven't been able to get them to real track temperatures yet.
For now they haven't even come close to squeaking. I'll report back as soon as I have some track experience with them.
 

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Hey everyone,

Installing the cobalt XR2s immediately fixed my noise issue which I was having with the raybestos, so I jumped to the conclusion that the issue was w/ the raybestos.

After a track day w/ the cobalt XR2s, my breaks were squealing like crazy again (sounded like someone screaming all the way from 40mph to 0) & it wasn't because of the break dust. I checked the breaks & the front-right anti-rattle bracket had bent & slipped under the pin on top & appeared to be grinding against the outside of the rotor. The dealership says they install a new anti rattle bracket & pins each time they change pads because the bracket can bend under super high temperatures ? I've had the car out for a few 120 degree f track sessions at big willow during the summer. Has anyone else had this issue?

I got new anti-rattle brackets, did a few track days, and all is well w/ both sets of pads. Super quiet aside from the typical race break squal when you come to a full stop.

TLDR; it turns out my crazy noise issue was not related to the Raybestos. I don't want to hate on them, they may in fact be better than the Cobalts. I was wrong.
 
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