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Discussion Starter #1
With the cost of the McLaren warrantee going up and the 12C's getting older, are you going to :
1) keep buying the warrantee?
2) go without warrantee?
3) trade in the car for a different car McLaren or?
4) sell the car outright?
5) OR?

I have a 2014 Spyder and my warrantee ends in July 2020. Trying to decide what to do.

I also thought it would be interesting for all to see what others are doing.

Scott in Southern California
 

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I just purchased a warrantech warranty from the dealer I bought the car from (not a mclaren dealer). Look up my past posts to see all the info I shared.
 

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I have a 2014 spider with 28K miles on it and let the ESC run out in May this year (2019). I bought it back in May 2018 from SF McLaren with 21K miles on it and with 1 year ESC included. The car was originally purchased there and serviced every April there so I was able to see all service history. Up to the 21K original miles all of the usual warranty related issues had been addressed - Iris failure, accumulators, faded HVAC screens, leaking brake lines and all the cooling system hoses and clamps were replaced plus other smaller misc items. I've put 7K on it up to this point with no issues. BH McLaren back in May this year replaced the water pump and expansion tank under warranty but they had to work that a bit to get approved because neither had anything actually wrong at the time, they were just Gen 1 parts and many of those had failed so the goal was to get them replaced while it was still under warranty. I raise all of this because for me the decision to not extend the ESC felt like a low risk given the miles, service history and past repairs of common failures. Id suggest that anyone looking to do this evaluate things the same way. For example, if I were to buy another 12C or even a 650S with really low miles, there is no way I would do that without the ESC. Higher mile cars may actually be lower to own in the long run and service history is an absolute must.
 

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almost 69k miles on my 2012.had pretty much all the issues that plagued them corrected mostly under warranty.
haven't had warranty since 2015 and only regular maintenance costs since.
#2 for me and cheaper parts are slowly coming on line making the $6500 or whatever esc costs now a bad investment .
car was all updated to latest spec within the first 3 years though.
As gray shark says,esc costs get spent on routine meticulous maintenance instead.
 

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I got my ESC when it was $10k for 2 years. It expires in 11/2020 and I do not plan to extend it. $7k per year is a lot of things going wrong... I have not had that many issues with the car to make that investment worth it.
 

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I just had my 2014 in for service and dealt with all the final remaining items that needed addressed. Roughly 14k miles on the car, had the accumulators and coolant hoses addressed, and now the car is current. Also had to replace a front control arm (roughly 1k), and brakes (rotors, pads, lines, etc.), but I caused that issue through improperly heat cycling them the last time I tracked the car. Out of all of that work, the Control Arm likely would have been covered, but alas, I would have lost money on the year had I paid for the ESC.

While the cost of ownership isn't cheap, I'm not going to pursue the ESC as I'm not big on betting against myself or my possessions. Ensuring it has a solid maintenance history with McLaren is my insurance policy and investment.

I never get an ESC on anything, and I hate everything these ESC's stand for. "Hey, congrats on your large purchase, it's probably going to break, so spend more money to buy peace of mind..." Rubbish.
 

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I've had six different 12c's in the past 4 years, none of them under warranty. I've fixed many of the issues these cars tend to have and I've spent way less than the cost of the warranty would have been. Here is the difference... I am a competent mechanic, and I do my own work so no labor costs...

Also, I refuse to pay the dealer premium for parts that I can get the same thing elsewhere. A good example is the ignition coils. The are identical to the coils sold for a 2007 - 2010 Nissan Sentra 2.0L. I just bought eight of them on Amazon for 22.00 each.
 

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2012 MP4-12C
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A good example is the ignition coils. The are identical to the coils sold for a 2007 - 2010 Nissan Sentra 2.0L. I just bought eight of them on Amazon for 22.00 each.
Mind sharing a link or the part number? I’m having my spark plugs swapped out and may want to do this as a precaution. Thanks!
 

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With the cost of the McLaren warrantee going up and the 12C's getting older, are you going to :
1) keep buying the warrantee?
2) go without warrantee?
3) trade in the car for a different car McLaren or?
4) sell the car outright?
5) OR?

I have a 2014 Spyder and my warrantee ends in July 2020. Trying to decide what to do.

I also thought it would be interesting for all to see what others are doing.

Scott in Southern California
Thank you!! I am glad to hear this. I have decided to discontinue the warranty, also, since I have read these posts.
 

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Mind sharing a link or the part number? I’m having my spark plugs swapped out and may want to do this as a precaution. Thanks!
I believe the OEM McLaren Coil is a BOSCH part# 0 221 604 014 (these are the coils that were in my car)

I replaced them with the same spec Part # Delphi GN10325 Ignition Coil for around 22.00 each on Amazon (also found them on ebay same price)

FWIW -Delphi provides a 36 month or 36,000 mile warranty on ignition coils



Also worth noting is the reason WHY the coils go bad so quickly in the McLaren's?

I have my hypothesis, and it is water gets into the engine bay easily and collects in the spark plug boot socket. Lots of times we wash our machine and put it away immediate.

Although the vehicle exterior is nice and dry, the engine is not run up to high temps for 10-15 minutes so the moisture does not get heated away, instead it just sits and corrodes inside the ignition coil boot (basically the spark plug wire) and the terminals on the coil pack itself.

Check out the pictures below where I dissected a one year old coil pack out of my 2012 MP4-12C (the coil pack manufacture date was 11-11-16, I removed this pack at the end of 2017)

  • The spark plug was rusted
  • The coil boot internal wire was corroded
  • The coil pack high voltage tip was corroded
The worst plug / coil pack was found in the spark plug on the driver side closest to the driver.

197885


197886



197887


197888

197889



Basically, the McLaren M383t Engine and Ignition system are engineered extremely well.

The problem is created by how we use our cars, and by the fact that water can so easily get into the engine compartment if you drive in the rain or go thru a car wash. Normally those events are followed by continuous driving, which would burn off the moisture... But when you wash then park immediately... you are doing the damage yourself... again, this is my personal theory.
 

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2012 MP4-12C
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I have a 2014 spider with 28K miles on it and let the ESC run out in May this year (2019). I bought it back in May 2018 from SF McLaren with 21K miles on it and with 1 year ESC included. The car was originally purchased there and serviced every April there so I was able to see all service history. Up to the 21K original miles all of the usual warranty related issues had been addressed - Iris failure, accumulators, faded HVAC screens, leaking brake lines and all the cooling system hoses and clamps were replaced plus other smaller misc items. I've put 7K on it up to this point with no issues. BH McLaren back in May this year replaced the water pump and expansion tank under warranty but they had to work that a bit to get approved because neither had anything actually wrong at the time, they were just Gen 1 parts and many of those had failed so the goal was to get them replaced while it was still under warranty. I raise all of this because for me the decision to not extend the ESC felt like a low risk given the miles, service history and past repairs of common failures. Id suggest that anyone looking to do this evaluate things the same way. For example, if I were to buy another 12C or even a 650S with really low miles, there is no way I would do that without the ESC. Higher mile cars may actually be lower to own in the long run and service history is an absolute must.
To me the big issue there is, did you have the transmission replaced. If you have a newer non gen 1 version of the transmission, I think even paying to replace any of the other things is relatively cheap. The transmission, on the other hand, is going to put a $30k dent in on things... In some ways, I almost wish my transmission died, just so that wild card would be out of the picture.
 

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From my research it seemed like very few of the transmissions have died. And even less engines.
 

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Regarding the Transmissions. I've heard of two major issues.

- The dreaded sudden loss of 2 liters of fluid - Dealer will not repair, only replace for 35k! In reality the vehicle owner can repair this for less than 100.00 in parts and fluids and 4 hours of labor. It happen to me, and I posted a DIY how-to on the forum to show how easy and you can fix it too.

- Transmission starts to shift erratically - This seems to be caused by a low fluid condition. @Texzen did a DIY how-to when he fixed his himself. He also goes in depth on the symptoms etc so it is a good read. In the end... Fresh fluid, properly filled corrects the problem.

The last transmission concern of erratic shifting is "probably" caused due to the transmission cooler recall campaign. I'm only guessing, but if a technician is being paid under warranty to replace your old cooler with a new one, you are going to lose some amount of fluid when they remove the old part (the cooler can hold one liter internally, plus spillage)

I have worked as a technician in dealerships (non-McLaren) and if a technician is in a rush and they are not being paid to go "above and beyond" it is very probable that many of the 12C's got a new revised cooler installed per the campaign, but lost a liter or more of fluid in the process. I come to this conclusion based on multiple different owners on this forum saying they personally changed the transmission or clutch fluid for the first time and they were surprised that the measure amount of fluid that came out was much less than the amount they put back in.


Again, we are saying that problems exist and you need to be prepared for the unexpected, but many of them can be foreseen and avoided thru meticulous proper maintenance or just so good old fashioned DIY know-how.

Please go to the McLaren Lounge and look at the sticky section. there is a great resource with most of the 2012-2017 Super Series P11 issues you might ever need to resolve. Spend some time and read everything posted per issue as sometimes additional helpful info is added to a conversation deeper into the posts and comments.





:cool:
 

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I believe the OEM McLaren Coil is a BOSCH part# 0 221 604 014 (these are the coils that were in my car)

I replaced them with the same spec Part # Delphi GN10325 Ignition Coil for around 22.00 each on Amazon (also found them on ebay same price)

FWIW -Delphi provides a 36 month or 36,000 mile warranty on ignition coils



Also worth noting is the reason WHY the coils go bad so quickly in the McLaren's?

I have my hypothesis, and it is water gets into the engine bay easily and collects in the spark plug boot socket. Lots of times we wash our machine and put it away immediate.

Although the vehicle exterior is nice and dry, the engine is not run up to high temps for 10-15 minutes so the moisture does not get heated away, instead it just sits and corrodes inside the ignition coil boot (basically the spark plug wire) and the terminals on the coil pack itself.

Check out the pictures below where I dissected a one year old coil pack out of my 2012 MP4-12C (the coil pack manufacture date was 11-11-16, I removed this pack at the end of 2017)

  • The spark plug was rusted
  • The coil boot internal wire was corroded
  • The coil pack high voltage tip was corroded
The worst plug / coil pack was found in the spark plug on the driver side closest to the driver.

View attachment 197885

View attachment 197886


View attachment 197887

View attachment 197888
View attachment 197889


Basically, the McLaren M383t Engine and Ignition system are engineered extremely well.

The problem is created by how we use our cars, and by the fact that water can so easily get into the engine compartment if you drive in the rain or go thru a car wash. Normally those events are followed by continuous driving, which would burn off the moisture... But when you wash then park immediately... you are doing the damage yourself... again, this is my personal theory.
I'm not the mechanically inclined but you bring up good topics (parts). What would you say is an estimate of parts that are made by companies that are only for Mclarens. Just as an example; I had to get new clamps for 720s exhaust (they came loose after someone I know mucked with them because we were trying out Laguna seca pipes and I found out that they were AMG parts.)
 

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I'm not the mechanically inclined but you bring up good topics (parts). What would you say is an estimate of parts that are made by companies that are only for Mclarens. Just as an example; I had to get new clamps for 720s exhaust (they came loose after someone I know mucked with them because we were trying out Laguna seca pipes and I found out that they were AMG parts.)
McLaren (and all the other car manufactures that I know of on this planet) design their cars in-house, and then sub-contract out most of the parts needed to assembly the car they are producing.

  • MonoCell manufactured by Carbo Tech
  • M383t engine is built by Ricardo
  • Tramission built by Granziano Oerlikon
  • Electronics by Pektron and Bosch
  • IRIS Infotainment system was built by Parrot
  • Seats by Recaro
  • IF you have carbon ceramic brakes the brake disc is the same as for a late model Chevrolet Corvette
  • And the list goes on...
The list goes down to the smallest of things, basically subcontractors either supply "off the shelf" existing items or they custom build something per the car manufacturers design/specifications.

When I have something break on my car (any make or model) I will remove the broken part and examine it. Many times there is a part number or the subcontractor manufacturer logo stamped on it. THIS is your starting point to hit the internet and start using your detective skills to find the same item (without the McLaren Tax of course) and save some big bucks....
 

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just renewed my esc last week along with service. have had about 25k worth of warranty work done to it in the last 7 months and hoping to get iris 2 sometime soon ;)
 

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What broke on your car requiring $25K?
nothing really broke. dealer just wanted to replace some parts to be new. had front control arms, driveshaft damper, tranny mount, all 4 accumulators, all 4 taillights, water pump, door latches, passenger mirror motor, mirror switch and i think a couple more minor stuff
 
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