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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Successfully found the alternate key panel in the left side air intake (12C). Problem is the key does not turn far enough to open the door. I have read that pressure needs to be put on the door to alleviate some of the load on the locking mechanism. I've tried pulling up, pushing down, and pulling forward on the door while trying to turn the key but no luck. Is this a two person job or is this a futile effort. Prepared to go through the left front wheel well if I have to.
 

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2012 MP4-12C
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I used needle nose pliers to turn the key, it works. It needs a lot of torque, and the pliers should give you the leverage you need.

Oh, put a paper napkin or something around the key so the needle nose pliers dont scuff up the key. Or maybe painters tape. Mine got scuffed up because I forgot to do that.
 

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if your window is all the way up, be very careful when opening. After it unlocks, don't let it come up quickly, take your fingers and help the glass clear the rubber moulding. Just to be on the safe side. The window may shatter otherwise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Good info guys, thanks!

Zombie
: Do you recall which way you turned the key? Outboard/away from the car or inboard/toward the engine?
Smokey: Good call on the window glass. Mine appears to have dropped slightly as per the way it is supposed to as the glass goes flat.

I crashed my KTM 690 three weeks ago and smacked my left shoulder pretty hard. Hadn't driven the car for about a week before that. I'm assuming that with my shoulder feeling better, when I tried it today it had just been too long since it was last run.
 

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Good info guys, thanks!

Zombie
: Do you recall which way you turned the key? Outboard/away from the car or inboard/toward the engine?
Smokey: Good call on the window glass. Mine appears to have dropped slightly as per the way it is supposed to as the glass goes flat.

I crashed my KTM 690 three weeks ago and smacked my left shoulder pretty hard. Hadn't driven the car for about a week before that. I'm assuming that with my shoulder feeling better, when I tried it today it had just been too long since it was last run.
Sorry, I dont remember (despite having opened it that way a dozen times at this point) and was annoyed I didnt know as well. I GENTLY turned both ways till I felt it give more in one direction. Hope that helps.
 

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I used needle nose pliers to turn the key, it works. It needs a lot of torque, and the pliers should give you the leverage you need.

Oh, put a paper napkin or something around the key so the needle nose pliers dont scuff up the key. Or maybe painters tape. Mine got scuffed up because I forgot to do that.
You dont need to do that. Its because you need to push the door in, its easy then.
 

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2012 MP4-12C
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You dont need to do that. Its because you need to push the door in, its easy then.
Thanks, I think I tried and it didnt help (I was on with the tech from the dealer and he walked me through a bunch of things). I have a very early version of soft close doors put in on mine and I wonder if it makes a difference or perhaps I wasn't pushing in the right spot or with enough force.

Thanks for mentioning it. I forgot that was one of the things I was told to try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Completed Project Report: Okay; got into the car using the manual key from the key fob and the "secret" key lock insert in the forward, upper area of the left rear fender (U.S. model). Got into the trunk through the pull-button/knob near the left door hinge. As per most everyone else's accounts, my McLaren trickle-charger was not seeing what it wanted (main battery reading was 1.7 volts) and would not charge the battery even after many reset attempts. Removed the trunk trim, mat, and the large cover uncovering the battery and the area behind the trunk. As noted by EMF and others (good step by step help here:
), you will need a 4mm hex for the two screws either side of the cabin air intake and a plain Phillips for all the rest. My quick count was 19 screws altogether.

As others have recommended, I connected my smart charger to the positive lug on the battery (that small bolt head is all I could reach but it was enough). Then with my Genius G15000 charger set on straight-through 13 volts (not using any of the battery-specific settings), I "tapped" the negative pole of the battery several times. I suppose any clean source of 12-13 volts would do the trick, including another battery. After a few tries, I could hear the car starting to wake up (various warning sounds, drivers window actuated full open, etc.) Hit reset on the McLaren trickle-charger a couple more times and voila! It cycled to the first amber light as advertised and over the next 6-8 hours, it charged to full green.

Disconnected it overnight. This morning after being reconnected, it was down a bit but it topped off quickly. With the key lying on the center console, it didn't start on the first try. I thought I might make sure the fob had been noticed by the car, so I cycled the "unlock" button and everything lit up. Car started immediately. Buttoned it up, put it back on the charger and am headed out in a few minutes! Hope this helps...


Lee...
 

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Hi hope anyone sees this... so I went through the same thing. Battery shut down into sleep mode. Put factory charger on, it kept cycling through the 6 lights.

I did the 5 second reset 25x and it all of a sudden rolled the drivers window down all the way and some inside lights came on like the lock button and the start/stop button would light up if I touched the door button.

The frunk light doesn't light up when I open it. The key isn't being recognized. The e-brake light comes on when I pull it. Nothing else lights up.

Key isn't working. I changed the battery too. Tried putting it in all the secret spots. Nothing.

Charger showed green 4 this morning and I reset it again and it's on orange 3. Maybe I need to jolt it a few more times or do the tap? Really want to avoid tearing it apart to that battery...
 
2012 MP4-12C 2018 720s
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Hi hope anyone sees this... so I went through the same thing. Battery shut down into sleep mode. Put factory charger on, it kept cycling through the 6 lights.

I did the 5 second reset 25x and it all of a sudden rolled the drivers window down all the way and some inside lights came on like the lock button and the start/stop button would light up if I touched the door button.

The frunk light doesn't light up when I open it. The key isn't being recognized. The e-brake light comes on when I pull it. Nothing else lights up.

Key isn't working. I changed the battery too. Tried putting it in all the secret spots. Nothing.

Charger showed green 4 this morning and I reset it again and it's on orange 3. Maybe I need to jolt it a few more times or do the tap? Really want to avoid tearing it apart to that battery...
You've gotta wait for the car to charge for several hours before it will start acting right. As long as the car woke up, just leave it overnight and it will work itself out. If you try to start it or make it do things on questionable battery level it could trigger other faults, like airbag, which you can't clear.
 

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Yeah I learned to leave it alone after messing with it enough and making headaches for myself.

Now... I can't remember for the life of me if I put the fuse cover back on. I don't recall clicking it into place. It's not in the garage. It's not in the frunk. I have to take it apart again to double check... FML.
 
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