the 12C and 570s are getting affordable now?
Dealer Shopping for a lightly used 720S
Probably a common type of thread, but hopefully someone was in my shoes and can provide an opinion. I've been interested in a 720S for a few years and am learning the differences between each Trim level. I definitely want a highly optioned Performance Trim.
My current situation and mindset is that I currently own a modified 2014 Audi R8 with a Supercharged V10 with a DCT for shifting. I'm probably into the car for about $225k - $250k in total. Very happy with the car and setup, very reliable, performance is awesome. Doesn't change the fact that I also love the look of the 720S.
What I am struggling with is I own the Audi, have it for nearly 8 years now. I'm not going to do anything else to it, I don't drive it a lot, but love to drive on the track. I only go out maybe 3 times per year, but really love it. I have to trade in the Audi if I buy a 720, and I'll go back to having a substantial loan for a few years.
I do not plan on modifying the 720 at all and I assume it would be as good or better than the Audi on the Track in its current form. So, I ask myself, do I want to drive that expensive of a car on the track? My rationalization to myself is, you can never use the car on the street the way it was intended to be driven, so it would be a waste to have it and not track it once in a while. I know not everyone feels this way, but for me, it's a thing.
I also am afraid that I will regret selling the Audi; the car is not without its own minor issues, but reliability and longevity are important to me.
I've had the car awhile, maybe I should move to something else.
Will Mclaren be around in the forseeable future? What happens to the cars, if you need parts and/or service if they disappear? What happens to the value of the cars? No one knows what will happen, but this is what floats around my head.
This seems to be my process when switching from one car to another. I had similar thoguhts when I went from my second Viper to the Audi, and I did not regret it one bit. Any thoughts, opinions would be greatly appreciated!
Also, has anyone worked with McLaren in Greenwich, CT?
My current situation and mindset is that I currently own a modified 2014 Audi R8 with a Supercharged V10 with a DCT for shifting. I'm probably into the car for about $225k - $250k in total. Very happy with the car and setup, very reliable, performance is awesome. Doesn't change the fact that I also love the look of the 720S.
What I am struggling with is I own the Audi, have it for nearly 8 years now. I'm not going to do anything else to it, I don't drive it a lot, but love to drive on the track. I only go out maybe 3 times per year, but really love it. I have to trade in the Audi if I buy a 720, and I'll go back to having a substantial loan for a few years.
I do not plan on modifying the 720 at all and I assume it would be as good or better than the Audi on the Track in its current form. So, I ask myself, do I want to drive that expensive of a car on the track? My rationalization to myself is, you can never use the car on the street the way it was intended to be driven, so it would be a waste to have it and not track it once in a while. I know not everyone feels this way, but for me, it's a thing.
I also am afraid that I will regret selling the Audi; the car is not without its own minor issues, but reliability and longevity are important to me.
I've had the car awhile, maybe I should move to something else.
Will Mclaren be around in the forseeable future? What happens to the cars, if you need parts and/or service if they disappear? What happens to the value of the cars? No one knows what will happen, but this is what floats around my head.
This seems to be my process when switching from one car to another. I had similar thoguhts when I went from my second Viper to the Audi, and I did not regret it one bit. Any thoughts, opinions would be greatly appreciated!
Also, has anyone worked with McLaren in Greenwich, CT?
21 - 40 of 49 Posts
It all depends on your definition of affordable, you know? I can’t swing a $1,000/month car payment right now and probably never will be able to.the 12C and 570s are getting affordable now?
Your gsxr1000 is a good alternativeHere is a hint. Do not drive one unless you can actually afford it. I made a mistake in driving one only after realizing I couldn’t afford it, and it eats away at me every damn day of my life because the cars are just that fucking good.
Yes, for sure!Your gsxr1000 is a good alternative
Just joined and saw this post, in a similar position and will start looking seriously for a 720s later this year. Mine will see some track time (prob 2-4 days/year). Brakes seem like they have been figured out and options exist so that seems fine but curious on the suspension issues.
As the OP asked are there any concerns with parts in terms of supply issues, also does the suspension require ongoing maintenance/parts or are there upgrades/3rd party items that can be swapped out for longevity? Any other components that would be of concern or need ongoing support? both from a tracking and driving perspective (ie say 4-6k miles/year). Seems like these cars are pretty sound on the engine front, not too concerned on the niggles and would get something that has been driven to hopefully have those addressed already.
Finally, is the extended warranty really worth it if your going to drive these machines? Not a fan of having to get a pre and post track inspection every time I track it and pay for the privilege plus the annual warranty cost but if there are obvious use cases maybe it's worth considering. ie I did the extended warranty on my wife's X5 as it included new rotors and pads under 50k, I ensured they were toast by then so it was a no brainer, but I don't generally do extended warranty coverage as it can be a PITA to claim under it and half the time if something breaks its an opportunity to upgrade a part anyway (I did note the turbo issue from this forum but again seems like a part upgrade should ensure that is a non issue).
Hoping that adding to this thread is more beneficial than starting another one,
Thanks
As the OP asked are there any concerns with parts in terms of supply issues, also does the suspension require ongoing maintenance/parts or are there upgrades/3rd party items that can be swapped out for longevity? Any other components that would be of concern or need ongoing support? both from a tracking and driving perspective (ie say 4-6k miles/year). Seems like these cars are pretty sound on the engine front, not too concerned on the niggles and would get something that has been driven to hopefully have those addressed already.
Finally, is the extended warranty really worth it if your going to drive these machines? Not a fan of having to get a pre and post track inspection every time I track it and pay for the privilege plus the annual warranty cost but if there are obvious use cases maybe it's worth considering. ie I did the extended warranty on my wife's X5 as it included new rotors and pads under 50k, I ensured they were toast by then so it was a no brainer, but I don't generally do extended warranty coverage as it can be a PITA to claim under it and half the time if something breaks its an opportunity to upgrade a part anyway (I did note the turbo issue from this forum but again seems like a part upgrade should ensure that is a non issue).
Hoping that adding to this thread is more beneficial than starting another one,
Thanks
Couldn't agree more. Some of my family thinks that I'm impulsive and just spend. They don't see how much time and mental effort goes into these decisions. Once I start talking about something that I want to buy, I tend to make my decision quickly when I find the right thing. I guess that's why it seems impulsive to them.Here is a hint. Do not drive one unless you can actually afford it. I made a mistake in driving one only after realizing I couldn’t afford it, and it eats away at me every damn day of my life because the cars are just that fucking good.
As far as affordability is concerned, it's all relative to your situation. I've never taken food off my table; always stayed where I was until the time was right. Saw Dodge Vipers when I was young and said $55k is a lot of money. Bought a used 2000, kept it for awhile and sold it in 2003. Bought my next one new, kept it for 10 years, but always had a muscle car also, Z28's, Camaro Race Cars, PRoStreet cars, etc.; Sold them to buy the R8. I had to convince myself it was the right move at $150k. Put a lot of $$ into it, but enjoy it. Now, I'm up to the next platform. This is a big jump for me, looking to keep it under 300k all in. It's a lot of money to anybody but not everybody, thus paining over my decision. I actually have a very supportive wife and usually she doesn't care what I buy, as long as I'm not careless. I've been talking to her about it a little. We will talk over this weekend and that will help me make make my decision. To buy or not to buy, that's the question.
I'd get the extended warranty.Just joined and saw this post, in a similar position and will start looking seriously for a 720s later this year. Mine will see some track time (prob 2-4 days/year). Brakes seem like they have been figured out and options exist so that seems fine but curious on the suspension issues.
As the OP asked are there any concerns with parts in terms of supply issues, also does the suspension require ongoing maintenance/parts or are there upgrades/3rd party items that can be swapped out for longevity? Any other components that would be of concern or need ongoing support? both from a tracking and driving perspective (ie say 4-6k miles/year). Seems like these cars are pretty sound on the engine front, not too concerned on the niggles and would get something that has been driven to hopefully have those addressed already.
Finally, is the extended warranty really worth it if your going to drive these machines? Not a fan of having to get a pre and post track inspection every time I track it and pay for the privilege plus the annual warranty cost but if there are obvious use cases maybe it's worth considering. ie I did the extended warranty on my wife's X5 as it included new rotors and pads under 50k, I ensured they were toast by then so it was a no brainer, but I don't generally do extended warranty coverage as it can be a PITA to claim under it and half the time if something breaks its an opportunity to upgrade a part anyway (I did note the turbo issue from this forum but again seems like a part upgrade should ensure that is a non issue).
Hoping that adding to this thread is more beneficial than starting another one,
Thanks
You will love the McLaren, any McLaren. I drove the 570 to the beach today. Then did a little 0-110 run between traffic lights (nobody around). Track next weekend. What's not to like?
Sounds pretty nice to me.
I guess my concern is doing the ext. warranty then having to pay for pre/post track days to not invalidate it, is that a thing? If it's a free service then it's just more of a PITA but still something I would prefer to avoid. Was thinking of going the indy route anyway on a car that would be 3-4 years old but if there is like $10k of stuff to do every year anyway maybe I'll plan to suck it up.I'd get the extended warranty.
I had a launch edition 720s that I received in August 2017 (0ne of the earlier ones).
I had 6000 track miles and 8000 track miles overall with the car. I was the original owner.
A good idea to swap out the rotors/pads for something else. It's been talked about many times over the years.
Do not rely on the brake sensors to change the pads. The outer and inner pads on the front generally do not wear evenly. The sensor is on the inner pads and in the middle of the pad. The upper and lower part of the pad wear out quicker then the part that the sensor detects. (this is even in the case if you use steel).
The party line is to get the track inspections. However, it ASSUMES that one doesn't know anything and no one is checking the car (they assume that the owner doesn't know how to check the oil, doesn't know how to do brake flushes, doesn't know if the pads need replacing, doesn't know if the tires have enough tread). The standard track checklist isn't much different then a normal HPDE checklist. However, the dealers do like to go over other things (sort of creating warranty work for themselves, software updates, campaigns (that you may not be aware of). Some dealers will always do a brake flush (which is the more costly component of the work - debatable if you even need to do this every time). If doing yourself or have a race team , then keep very good records with receipts, pictures, dates, etc. (this is for your own piece of mind and if you have an extended warranty).
For the love of god; read the owners manual (90% of the things people ask on here or are confused about are covered in the owners manual). Take your computer out to the car and go page by page and fidlde with the settings and try things out.
For tracking specifically; research how to use ESC dynamic mode (if you are not in esc dynamic mode then the power will be cutting out of corners and you'll confuse it with turbo lag). Research variable drift control, how to keep the e brake disengaed when you are powering down the car, how long to cool down the car, how long you should let it idle after hot laps before turning off the engine, the necessity to lock the car and make it go to sleep if the e brake is disengaged, power saving mode and impact to the movement of the electric seats.
More traffic on track the better for you. You don't need anyone's cooperation to pass. You'll get mad if someone gives you a point by (as if you need a point by to get pas them).
720s is by far the most tracked supercar.
I had 6000 track miles and 8000 track miles overall with the car. I was the original owner.
A good idea to swap out the rotors/pads for something else. It's been talked about many times over the years.
Do not rely on the brake sensors to change the pads. The outer and inner pads on the front generally do not wear evenly. The sensor is on the inner pads and in the middle of the pad. The upper and lower part of the pad wear out quicker then the part that the sensor detects. (this is even in the case if you use steel).
The party line is to get the track inspections. However, it ASSUMES that one doesn't know anything and no one is checking the car (they assume that the owner doesn't know how to check the oil, doesn't know how to do brake flushes, doesn't know if the pads need replacing, doesn't know if the tires have enough tread). The standard track checklist isn't much different then a normal HPDE checklist. However, the dealers do like to go over other things (sort of creating warranty work for themselves, software updates, campaigns (that you may not be aware of). Some dealers will always do a brake flush (which is the more costly component of the work - debatable if you even need to do this every time). If doing yourself or have a race team , then keep very good records with receipts, pictures, dates, etc. (this is for your own piece of mind and if you have an extended warranty).
For the love of god; read the owners manual (90% of the things people ask on here or are confused about are covered in the owners manual). Take your computer out to the car and go page by page and fidlde with the settings and try things out.
For tracking specifically; research how to use ESC dynamic mode (if you are not in esc dynamic mode then the power will be cutting out of corners and you'll confuse it with turbo lag). Research variable drift control, how to keep the e brake disengaed when you are powering down the car, how long to cool down the car, how long you should let it idle after hot laps before turning off the engine, the necessity to lock the car and make it go to sleep if the e brake is disengaged, power saving mode and impact to the movement of the electric seats.
More traffic on track the better for you. You don't need anyone's cooperation to pass. You'll get mad if someone gives you a point by (as if you need a point by to get pas them).
720s is by far the most tracked supercar.
Yeah, it's a pita. If you're going to regularly track the car, you're probably not going to be getting the extended warranty. My dealer charges $800 for the inspections.I guess my concern is doing the ext. warranty then having to pay for pre/post track days to not invalidate it, is that a thing? If it's a free service then it's just more of a PITA but still something I would prefer to avoid. Was thinking of going the indy route anyway on a car that would be 3-4 years old but if there is like $10k of stuff to do every year anyway maybe I'll plan to suck it up.
Thanks for the notes unmac, I was leaning towards the AP setup due to the caliper design (from what I've read so far), will continue to figure that out. The settings in the car at the track are definitely something to learn, coming from Porsches they are way easy, had an RS5 that required multiple menus and buttons to free the thing up (then remembering to turn everything back on for the drive home!).
invisiblewave, this is what I had read elsewhere too, I'm leaning the non coverage direction for these types of reasons, plus not everything is covered, etc, etc. If I was looking at a prime example and just doing street driving I could see it but I'll probably be looking for something in the mid range that will see multiple use cases and don't really want to be beholden to an expensive policy with rules I'll probably end up breaking anyway (or at least getting fed up with). Figuring a good PPI and find a good local shop to work on the car will be the way to go.
Thanks for the inputs
invisiblewave, this is what I had read elsewhere too, I'm leaning the non coverage direction for these types of reasons, plus not everything is covered, etc, etc. If I was looking at a prime example and just doing street driving I could see it but I'll probably be looking for something in the mid range that will see multiple use cases and don't really want to be beholden to an expensive policy with rules I'll probably end up breaking anyway (or at least getting fed up with). Figuring a good PPI and find a good local shop to work on the car will be the way to go.
Thanks for the inputs
I agree the AP setup is superior. The un-sprung weight savings alone make it superior to other cast solutions. In addition, you don't cook the stock calipers. Finally, it can be sold when you move on.
Yeah, my car was CPO when I bought it, and the warranty covered ~$15k in maintenance in the first year. The two big ticket items were a rear main oil seal and the control arms, both of which showed up in the post-track inspection, so there is some value in the inspections over and above a simple track inspection. I'm planning to do 2 or 3 track days this year on smaller tracks which probably won't be quite as hard on brakes and tyres, and if the consumables are manageable, I'll probably forgo the warranty renewal when it expires in March next year. I'm fortunate to have a local option other than the dealer for servicing, so I can save on the annual service as well as the warranty cost. The track inspection requirement is somewhat galling, if you do three track days a year you're adding 50% to the warranty cost, as well as having the inconvenience of having to trek to the dealer for two inspections for every track day. In theory, you might be able to get the inspection done elsewhere, but whoever does it would have to follow the McLaren requirements very precisely, and someone posted that their dealer required the inspection document to be sent to them prior to the track day, all of which is just extra hassle on top of all the other hassles involved in track running.Thanks for the notes unmac, I was leaning towards the AP setup due to the caliper design (from what I've read so far), will continue to figure that out. The settings in the car at the track are definitely something to learn, coming from Porsches they are way easy, had an RS5 that required multiple menus and buttons to free the thing up (then remembering to turn everything back on for the drive home!).
invisiblewave, this is what I had read elsewhere too, I'm leaning the non coverage direction for these types of reasons, plus not everything is covered, etc, etc. If I was looking at a prime example and just doing street driving I could see it but I'll probably be looking for something in the mid range that will see multiple use cases and don't really want to be beholden to an expensive policy with rules I'll probably end up breaking anyway (or at least getting fed up with). Figuring a good PPI and find a good local shop to work on the car will be the way to go.
Thanks for the inputs
Yes . This is on point . Much more expensive then steel though . The calipers allow the kit to be used among different mclarens . There is a secondary market for re-sale now .I agree the AP setup is superior. The un-sprung weight savings alone make it superior to other cast solutions. In addition, you don't cook the stock calipers. Finally, it can be sold when you move on.
I do have 3 friends who are using the ap kit on mclarens .
However , it wasn’t available when I first started tracking …. The only thing to really think about is that the oem brake cooling ducts would have to be removed (they fit into the oem calipers with a screw and the ap calipers do not have that …. I was very uneasy about doing this and relying on ap vs the oem cooling ducts.
The cooling ducts are one reason I'm looking at a carbon rotor solution rather than changing the calipers too, but afaik the 570 calipers don't suffer from the uneven pad wear you've described on the 720.Yes . This is on point . Much more expensive then steel though . The calipers allow the kit to be used among different mclarens . There is a secondary market for re-sale now .
I do have 3 friends who are using the ap kit on mclarens .
However , it wasn’t available when I first started tracking …. The only thing to really think about is that the oem brake cooling ducts would have to be removed (they fit into the oem calipers with a screw and the ap calipers do not have that …. I was very uneasy about doing this and relying on ap vs the oem cooling ducts.
Good notes, I guess an ideal situation would be a car with some warranty left on it, live with it for 6-9 mos. say and get a few track days under it, see what shows up, then determine if I extend. GTK on the air ducts, Sounds like enough folks have switched to the AP setup that it would work though and maybe there would be a used option when I pull the trigger, even better
AP only gives you the pig-iron rotor option, though, afaik, so you have to live with the extra un-sprung weight and the god-awful brake dust.Good notes, I guess an ideal situation would be a car with some warranty left on it, live with it for 6-9 mos. say and get a few track days under it, see what shows up, then determine if I extend. GTK on the air ducts, Sounds like enough folks have switched to the AP setup that it would work though and maybe there would be a used option when I pull the trigger, even better
Yeah, always a compromise somewhere, glad to see there are options though, coming from Porsche you get a bit spoiled with the aftermarket stuff. I see a few 720/765s at the track on occasion so will do some additional researchAP only gives you the pig-iron rotor option, though, afaik, so you have to live with the extra un-sprung weight and the god-awful brake dust.
21 - 40 of 49 Posts
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