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Discussion Starter #1
I had tracked my car last Thursday at a local track. It is a medium speed track with mostly right turns.

The car hasn't been driven since that night and on Sunday I noticed a serious crack on the OEM 11J rear driver's side rim.

I didn't hit any potholes or drive over any aggressive railroad tracks on the way home and on the track. The track has medium sized curbs but they are not aggressive and very low impact on the vehicle.

My car has MPS4S which are great track tires when up to temp. I didn't push the car hard as there were many novice drivers out there but there is one decreasing radius right corner that leads to a back straight that puts a good amount of stress on the driver's rear tires.

Has anyone seen an OEM rim fracture / crack the way mine did?

Quite shocked to see a McLaren OEM wheel crack the way it did. Did some research and was unable to find others with similar experiences.

I do plan on tracking my car more in the future and not sure if getting a replacement 11J (Penis wheel) is the right move if they have a tendency to crack but I have never read/heard of this being an issue.

Pictures of the cracked rim:

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Its a good thing you caught that! I have the stealth penis wheels wish I had aluminum color I'm not a fan of black satin.
 

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Those penis wheels are forged so cracking should be rare. But putting on stickier tires do tend to stress more the wheel structure. If coupled with a forged wheel that maybe has a slightly subpar material composition, it may happen. Thats why I usually laugh when aftermarket wheel companies tout their wheels to be super light over OE. Its alot easier to make wheels light vs making wheels that survive sticky tires, high downforce and road imperfections. But I guess thats good for them since its repeat business...;) I would suggest getting another design OE forged wheels from Mclaren which is the multiple spoke fin type that by design should have slightly better energy dispersement over the penis style...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Those penis wheels are forged so cracking should be rare. But putting on stickier tires do tend to stress more the wheel structure. If coupled with a forged wheel that maybe has a slightly subpar material composition, it may happen. Thats why I usually laugh when aftermarket wheel companies tout their wheels to be super light over OE. Its alot easier to make wheels light vs making wheels that survive sticky tires, high downforce and road imperfections. But I guess thats good for them since its repeat business...;) I would suggest getting another design OE forged wheels from Mclaren which is the multiple spoke fin type that by design should have slightly better energy dispersement over the penis style...
Yeah, i'm thinking of that option as well... They just cost similarly to a decent aftermarket set of wheels.

I've seen videos of 12C's on 11J rims on slicks at Laguna for example, which has elevation changes, high compression turns which would apply at least 3x + more stress onto the wheels and didn't hear of any failure of the wheels.
 

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Yeah, i'm thinking of that option as well... They just cost similarly to a decent aftermarket set of wheels.

I've seen videos of 12C's on 11J rims on slicks at Laguna for example, which has elevation changes, high compression turns which would apply at least 3x + more stress onto the wheels and didn't hear of any failure of the wheels.
Look for brand new OE wheels. I wouldnt recommend used wheels simply because like old shoes, you dont know whats the history...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, I'm thinking of just getting the OEM Mclaren superlight weight wheels which look to be the best bank of the buck that perform very well.
 

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Don’t get the Mac super light wheels .as name implies, they have even less material to work with So unless you have a fluke rim, the super lights could also crack.
 

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Don’t get the Mac super light wheels .as name implies, they have even less material to work with So unless you have a fluke rim, the super lights could also crack.
Those multiple spokes disperse energy and load much better than the 5 split spokes of the penis wheel... design is similar to the P1 which takes alot of load from the downforce...
 

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Don’t get the Mac super light wheels .as name implies, they have even less material to work with So unless you have a fluke rim, the super lights could also crack.
Have tracked my car and so have hundreds of others with the Mac super lights and I have never heard of or seen an issue. I feel the OP's rims just had a manufacturing defect
 

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I have tracked my 12c for several years. My penis wheels developed cracks on the outer edges of the rims. I bought a set of Finspeed wheels and run Pirellis slicks with no issues. Highly recommend Finspeed wheels. They are under $6k. I ran a 2:19.5 at COTA with this setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Have tracked my car and so have hundreds of others with the Mac super lights and I have never heard of or seen an issue. I feel the OP's rims just had a manufacturing defect
Possible but if it was a manuf. defect, I would presume there has to be more than one occurrence.

I purchased the vehicle just under 2-years ago and have had multiple track days at much more aggressive tracks (in terms of lateral G-Force.... Turn 1 & Turn 14 at Sebring for example) and rim didn't show any stress of a crack/fracture.

I guess it took a beating but unsure how it could still happen. Maybe 8 year old wheels lose their strength?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have tracked my 12c for several years. My penis wheels developed cracks on the outer edges of the rims. I bought a set of Finspeed wheels and run Pirellis slicks with no issues. Highly recommend Finspeed wheels. They are under $6k. I ran a 2:19.5 at COTA with this setup.
Good to know I wasn't the only one.... but the location of where my cracked seams to be much different than yours.

You wouldn't have any pictures of when your penis wheels cracked would you?
 

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Possible but if it was a manuf. defect, I would presume there has to be more than one occurrence.

I purchased the vehicle just under 2-years ago and have had multiple track days at much more aggressive tracks (in terms of lateral G-Force.... Turn 1 & Turn 14 at Sebring for example) and rim didn't show any stress of a crack/fracture.

I guess it took a beating but unsure how it could still happen. Maybe 8 year old wheels lose their strength?
Was there any surface damage to the wheel? It looks like the surface of the spoke was punctured, which could well lead to cracking.
 
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