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I know this topic has been brought up in an earlier thread, but since I just retrofitted Carbon Ceramics into my 12C in http://www.mclarenlife.com/forums/m...on-ceramics-vs-standard-cast-iron-brakes.html . I thought it would best to share by consolidating some past information edited and extracted together with some of my own observation and experience. Although I have catered this Bedding in procedure for Carbon Ceramic Brakes (CCM), I am positive it will work the same for Cast Iron too.
Upon visual inspection of a brand new set of Carbon Ceramic rotors, they seem 'rough', 'soft' and 'porous' like a well-baked black cake. I presume the brake manufacturers made it 'rough' right out of the kilning process because it helps for transfer of materials and friction film during the bedding process. It is common knowledge that CCM brakes are designed for repeated extreme braking under high speed applications so renown brake manufacturers would design their CCM brakes with a bias towards high speed performance and safety. The Bedding process enable carbon-ceramic brake discs to demonstrate their better brake response behavior, higher fading stability, good brake modulation and control.
This program is identical for all disc sizes and consists of four phases (Step 1 to 7) with reference to the official procedural instructions provided by McLaren (See attached). The aim of the first phase (Step 1) is to create sufficiently high contact between brake disc and brake pad. The purpose of the following second (Step 3) and third phase (Step 5) is to fully develop the friction film between brake pad and brake disc.
Throughout the procedure from Step 1-6 that consist basically 3 phases, the stops in question need to be done without activating ABS, i.e threshold braking the car, so that a constant pressure is kept on the pad during the stop. This is to help build up the heat in the pad. The goal here is to bake off the top layer of bonding agent from the pad so that an air pocket forming becomes impossible or highly unlikely. Basically what you're looking for is the pad to start fading bad during the procedure. That generally happens around stop 20-30 or so (in Step 3), when braking distances feel like they are increasing dramatically. Once this point has hit, the gasses are beginning to boil off. A few more stops after that point and the brakes will feel like they're grabbing before you even touch the pedal.
The time interval between all the above phases should be about 3 minutes or simply drive 3 kilometers without using your brakes to allow the brakes to cool down to between 40-50 degrees Celsius with variation subject to your ambient temperature.
The last phase (Step 7) can be conducted by at least 3 brake applications at maximum deceleration (ABS control range) from 100–110km/h down to zero. At that point: you're done. Drive the car for a while say 8 km at legal speeds to cool the brakes.
Upon visual inspection of a brand new set of Carbon Ceramic rotors, they seem 'rough', 'soft' and 'porous' like a well-baked black cake. I presume the brake manufacturers made it 'rough' right out of the kilning process because it helps for transfer of materials and friction film during the bedding process. It is common knowledge that CCM brakes are designed for repeated extreme braking under high speed applications so renown brake manufacturers would design their CCM brakes with a bias towards high speed performance and safety. The Bedding process enable carbon-ceramic brake discs to demonstrate their better brake response behavior, higher fading stability, good brake modulation and control.
This program is identical for all disc sizes and consists of four phases (Step 1 to 7) with reference to the official procedural instructions provided by McLaren (See attached). The aim of the first phase (Step 1) is to create sufficiently high contact between brake disc and brake pad. The purpose of the following second (Step 3) and third phase (Step 5) is to fully develop the friction film between brake pad and brake disc.
Throughout the procedure from Step 1-6 that consist basically 3 phases, the stops in question need to be done without activating ABS, i.e threshold braking the car, so that a constant pressure is kept on the pad during the stop. This is to help build up the heat in the pad. The goal here is to bake off the top layer of bonding agent from the pad so that an air pocket forming becomes impossible or highly unlikely. Basically what you're looking for is the pad to start fading bad during the procedure. That generally happens around stop 20-30 or so (in Step 3), when braking distances feel like they are increasing dramatically. Once this point has hit, the gasses are beginning to boil off. A few more stops after that point and the brakes will feel like they're grabbing before you even touch the pedal.
The time interval between all the above phases should be about 3 minutes or simply drive 3 kilometers without using your brakes to allow the brakes to cool down to between 40-50 degrees Celsius with variation subject to your ambient temperature.
The last phase (Step 7) can be conducted by at least 3 brake applications at maximum deceleration (ABS control range) from 100–110km/h down to zero. At that point: you're done. Drive the car for a while say 8 km at legal speeds to cool the brakes.
