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Discussion Starter #1
So, my car battery always seems to hover around 48 days. I drove it on a Friday, all was good, then 5 days later - flatline! Remote (notta), open the doors (no response to my fingers on the nipple - same thing that led to my second divorce....). And, unlike I had been led to believe - the windows DID NOT CRACK WHEN THE BATTERY GOT LOW. So, here I was with no way to get into the car. What I now know is that there is very little info out there in one place to allow you to get access and restart your car. So, I’ll put it here. First in summary, and tomorrow, in detail.

1. You can’t open your door with the normal procedure (using your pho’s iCal metal key to release the drivers door and pulling the manual truck release). If your car did not crack the windows - this won’t work.

However, removing the 2 “star” headed screws at the top (inside) of the drivers wheel well allows you access to the truck cord. After removing the screws, you must pull the wheel well away from the fender on the top, back side to allow this to be pulled down a few inches. This access will be the middle of the cord (no handle) - you just grab it and tug back away from the trunk - towards the wheel.

After this, your truck is released, but latched. Slide your hand in, and feel the little lever to the left side of the post. Flip that to the left and the truck is open.

2. My trickle charger did nothing -

When I plugged in the traditional end into the cigarette lighter port - it would only show a green power light - no status on charging, etc.

3. Take off the cover to access the battery

Use a flathead screwdriver and turn the 2 screws above the charging port 90 degrees left. Grab the charging port lid and give a tug - the piece pulls out and towards you.

You can now see the battery. The negative terminal is on the left, and exposed. The positive terminal is on the right, and she owes by a plastic cover - making it inaccessible. Reach your hand over this going from the passenger side to the drivers side, slide until you feel the back of the cover. Just grab and pull up. This will release the tabs in the back. Now, fiddle with the front part, and it will slide toward the drivers side exposing the positive terminal.

4. There is a strange “charging plate” that sticks up. It looks like a flat metal tab - that’s your target for your charger or jumper cables.

I tried charging here, still nothing from the McLaren charger - so, I connected a jump pack and fiinally had power.

This rolled down the windows, and allowed me access to the car.

At this point, I am in the car, have access to the truck and battery, and am close to starting. However, my jump pack is low on charge, so I cannot turn the car over enough to start. But, I have gone from completely lost and helpless to, pretty damn close to being on the road again.

It has been frustrating, so, procedure will be posted tomorrow (after I drive a bit and charge this puppy up!!!)
 

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2012 "Swipe" MP4-12C
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The last and final step after you have "shocked" the battery back to life with a traditional charger, is to simple use the McLaren lithium-ion charger. It should work now the battery has been jolted back to life...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Imas for “counting my blessings”, I will say that when I successfully got the door open, I was pretty happy. Its difficult for me to be angry at the Mac for too long, but I was doing my best. Cheeks in the seat and it felt like we made up.

However....still no joy on starting. I followed the boost procedure and can get close, but the car just won’t turn over.

I hooked to a traditional charger for about 10 min, but the McLaren charger still does not begin its cycle.

So....I am waiting on my noco boost pack to charge, and, we will see if I can boost.

Ugh. Rainy day. But, 1st world P - “I had to take the Porsche to autozone to get the boost pack because my McLaren is giving me fits....“

Cry me a river!!
 

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It took me a full day after a completely dead battery to get it started after leaving it with the ctek.
 
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So, my car battery always seems to hover around 48 days. I drove it on a Friday, all was good, then 5 days later - flatline! Remote (notta), open the doors (no response to my fingers on the nipple - same thing that led to my second divorce....). And, unlike I had been led to believe - the windows DID NOT CRACK WHEN THE BATTERY GOT LOW. So, here I was with no way to get into the car. What I now know is that there is very little info out there in one place to allow you to get access and restart your car. So, I’ll put it here. First in summary, and tomorrow, in detail.

Did you have the battery charger plugged in during those 5 days......I assume you did not.
It would be even worse if the battery charger was plugged in, failed, and your battery died.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, so, never could get the battery to come back. So, today I had a new battery installed. 2900, for the battery, 250 for the trip to the house to put it in. The battery (new from McLaren), was not charged. So, we put the McLaren charger on it once back together.

Bad news is that it starts now, but the main display is dark - completely dark. The iris works, mirrors don’t fold out (stay in as if I’m locked position, and oddly enough, the inside door release doesn’t work, I can only open the doors from the outside.

Very frustrated - anyone been down a similar path? Everything worked fine before this, and, the screen worked when the old battery was down, but being charged. Now, notta.
 

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Wow
That sounds catastrophic

if it were me, I would be sending it to the dealer at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That may be where we are. There is a very good mechanic in Tulsa, but we will see what he says. The only bright spot is I can load it now on a trailer.
 

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I have more powerful OEM batteries with more longevity and a 3 year warranty. Fully compatible with all electronics. 2600 shipped in the continental US. Core charge that is refundable with a core with working electronics. I have wiring harnesses for conversion from Gen 1 to Gen 2 and brackets. I have a limited number of Gen 1 codes available for the lucky first responders to this ad.

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Discussion Starter #12
My apologies, I started this thread in order to hopefully help others in a similar plight - on that account, I have failed miserably! But, I can finish this thread.

as mentioned above, new battery in, car will start, but screen is black (IRIS works). Can’t open the door from the inside, also, mirrors remained folded in. At the advice of John from Speedsportz, Tulsa, I disconnected and reconnected the negative battery cable (the one you can easily get to...). Like voodoo,THE MAIN SCREEN WORKS AND I CAN OPEN THR DOORS!!!

Mirrors still remain folded as in the “locked” position. Upon further advice from John, I operated the manual fold function by rotating the mirror control to point down, and then turned it back to the up position. Like VOODOO, The mirrors are unfolded again. It’s like VOODOO, because magic has a nice connotation to it, and seems infinitely more easy to understand. The electronics on the car defy logic, it’s down the rabbit hole, happenstance and twilight zone. It is like there is a magic 8 ball of malady in the computer. Or, a celestial event that seems (logically) unrelated is exactly what you need to get your car back to normal working condition.

Oh well, I’ll think on this some....I have a good 3 years before I have to deal with this Nonsense again!!
 

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can't believe the new battery from mac was not charged. those batteries frown at sitting discharged for any period of time,and a deep discharge is never good either!
 
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