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Discussion Starter #81

The problem is not fixed. This is me driving the car the very night i get it back (today). Pay extra attention from 20 second onwards. Its 4 degre3s celsius and i have corsas so the tc is on. So i use 4th gear to example the bogging so tc is not a factor in this video. Whats wrong? The turbos? Dealership gave the car back looking like it was kept at a construction site but they did utter "mechanically perfect" thrice with me hysterical laughing
Video will take some time to process and look better
 

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did the dealer positively confirm that the turbo compressor wheels were not damaged?
hard to see in video,but is it a sharp hard cutoff or does it feel like a soft kill?
 

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Discussion Starter #83
did the dealer positively confirm that the turbo compressor wheels were not damaged?
hard to see in video,but is it a sharp hard cutoff or does it feel like a soft kill?
Dealer confirmed that the turbos including compressors were ok. Cut offs are hard but at varying degrees. Sometimes very hard sometimes kind of soft. :(
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
so you are sure you didn’t lift off the gas at 80mph? The only time the car cuts power like that is traction loss. Can you film on a smoother flat road?

The last video wasnt the best. Here is another one. I dont life off the gas, but i gradually build the rps before doing WOT so i dont suffer traction loss.

Further tests i have done are turning traction off completely (no video i needed both hands) and the bogging still occured. I also tried gradually building up the revs till the redline (not WOT) and upon doing so i saw that slow build up of revs dont cause bogging. No bogging on 1st gear less on second gear. Definite boost issue i think. Either mclaren troy botched the repairs or lemon but i still am so butthurt about not having this car proper since march and also all the 1 hour uber rides im taking the dealership where they wont even wash my car. Sorry i dont complain i really really make it a point to not complain about things because I have a very blessed life like all of you and these are trivial things in the bigger picture. If you go see all my other posts i tried to give mclaren troy a lot of credit but im just tired. I really love my 720 and its a lot of bs to deal with
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Anyway. Im not going to update this thread anymore. I really do appreciate all the help. Itll probably be fixed under warranty
 

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kinda looks like tc is cutting in. there's a run on 2nd video where it goes straight to redline without a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
kinda looks like tc is cutting in. there's a run on 2nd video where it goes straight to redline without a problem.
Not the tc maaaaaan. During some of the bogging you can see the whole dash no tc light flickering and even if the tc cuts in for half a second the light flickers for at least 2 to 3 seconds. You were very understanding before please dont sound like the dealership now im really frustrated. I also noted no bogging at 1st gear i can redline and less bogging at 2nd gear i can sometime redline.
 

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Your tires are cold. U see them blue on the dash. When warm they are black. You won’t have traction in the cold and can spin at any speed at wide open throttle.
But that shuttering looks like what happens from traction control. Or somethings broken and they dealer doesn’t know. At this point just swap out. Life’s too short.

you could also find a place to do a dyno run. If it cuts power on the machine then it’s the car. If not then it’s the road your on.
 

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Thats a good assessment sir, but i just had the cats replaced like 3 weeks ago. Your comments have both piques my interest and confused me :( heres an invoive from the cats being replaced too
Again, cats get wrecked by either having too much oil, fuel or coolant getting into them. You had yours replaced so that means one or the whole three were the cause.
Given that you are getting bogged down during accelaration and inlet diffusor is a problem, that causes a plastic part inside to get unglued and free inside the inlets, these inlets, that are the plastic tube that serves to direct air to the turbos, might come in contact with the turbo and wreck it. These turbos have oil inside, this oil will be sucked into the cylinder and causing the cats to fail, plugs getting fauled and cats ruined, and given that it's plastic getting in contact with a propeller your engine might very well have melted plastic inside.
So right now 100% for sure, you have inlet(s) diffuser loose, your plugs are fckd, and your turbos might be leaking.
My advice would be for the mechanics, to change plugs and coils, do a compression test and have a look inside the cylinders, test the injectors as well and run a fuel pump test (might as well cross it), check for leaks on the gaskets and more important of all change the bloody inlets and check the turbos for leaks.

Another recommendation, please try to find another shop, those people seem inapt to even work at those 10$ oil change scammy establishments..

To be really honest again, this issue even tho it's not the easiest to diagnose, isn't that big either, a decent mechanic regardless of brand, that doesn't have less than 2 brain cells, when presented with your openess for them to just fix it and find the issues and given the work load needed to get inside the belly, would just carry out an holistic diagnose to try to find what was wrong with the car to cause the cats to fail.
 

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Discussion Starter #95 (Edited)
I guess ill update this thread due to sunk costs and the off chance anyone is interested about the outcome (prerequisite being they believe me in the first place). Here is a video i took today where i show you the traction control light coming on just to remove any doubt that my traction control is faulty in any manner. In my previous videos i know in general its hard to see but if you try during several of the bogging situations there was no traction control light. I have 9000 miles on this car, each mile i took in. I respect the hell out of everyone's learned opinion here but try to trust me with the fact that i know my cars (might not be near as good as a driver or be even mechanically adept though). If you tell me that my previous video was on sports mode then my rebuttal would be that im willing to pay to get my car back, upfront, but lets not get into the uglies. I trust a shop if it literally represents mclaren but thank you so much for empathizing @RennOracle i literally am alone in the middle of michigan with no family here in the states and its lockdown and i have to deal with my studies. I really dont want to have the one thing that makes me smile like this but i also really dont want to deal with this right now
 

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Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
Again, cats get wrecked by either having too much oil, fuel or coolant getting into them. You had yours replaced so that means one or the whole three were the cause.
Given that you are getting bogged down during accelaration and inlet diffusor is a problem, that causes a plastic part inside to get unglued and free inside the inlets, these inlets, that are the plastic tube that serves to direct air to the turbos, might come in contact with the turbo and wreck it. These turbos have oil inside, this oil will be sucked into the cylinder and causing the cats to fail, plugs getting fauled and cats ruined, and given that it's plastic getting in contact with a propeller your engine might very well have melted plastic inside.
So right now 100% for sure, you have inlet(s) diffuser loose, your plugs are fckd, and your turbos might be leaking.
My advice would be for the mechanics, to change plugs and coils, do a compression test and have a look inside the cylinders, test the injectors as well and run a fuel pump test (might as well cross it), check for leaks on the gaskets and more important of all change the bloody inlets and check the turbos for leaks.

Another recommendation, please try to find another shop, those people seem inapt to even work at those 10$ oil change scammy establishments..

To be really honest again, this issue even tho it's not the easiest to diagnose, isn't that big either, a decent mechanic regardless of brand, that doesn't have less than 2 brain cells, when presented with your openess for them to just fix it and find the issues and given the work load needed to get inside the belly, would just carry out an holistic diagnose to try to find what was wrong with the car to cause the cats to fail.
They changed my inlet pipes and assessed everything. Gave it back 2 days ago. Same problem. So youre saying i should insist on your further test recommendations? I dont know any other shops here. What can an engine compression test achieve? Can readings suggest melted plastic in the engine? I still think its a boost issue as it only happens under WOT and not gradual accelaration and also around higher gears.
 

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For your own safety. Wait till the tires turn black on the display. If they are blue you can go sideways easily. Have you tried it with ESC off x1 press in track power mode?
 

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Discussion Starter #98
For your own safety. Wait till the tires turn black on the display. If they are blue you can go sideways easily. Have you tried it with ESC off x1 press in track power mode?
I will stop making these stupid videos with cold tires. Its snowing today even i wont be able to get temp into my corsas. I will heed your advice and stop being foolish. I did try with tc completely off (only possible at suspension track) and bogging occured at 4th gear on various roads yesterday (it was 12 degr32s celsius yesterday which)
 

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Discussion Starter #99
206921

Roadside service provided through Mclaren by Troy auto care. Having worked them 3 times now, i definitely recommend them lol
 
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