Video will take some time to process and look better
720s hesitating/bogging during acceleration (WOT)
Hey guys, hope everyone's healthy and well. I have a fully stock 18 720s that I bought last september from Ohio with 1200 miles for 262k. Its VIN ends with 1805. If you'd like to go straight to the problems facing my 720s, kindly skip to the next paragraph gentlemen (and the one lady who thought this was her husbands dating site). I parted with my '14 SLS for it which was a big deal for me. Although I made a hefty sum on the SLS, I willingly got into a car that I knew was a money pit because I never intended to sell it. You see, I am kind of in love with the 720s. Its presence is strong yet sublime and its speed is second to none in the segment. I am not going to discribe the 720s any further in fear of being superfluous after so many other reviews. Anyway, I am one year and 9000 miles in. I changed the oil twice and the tires once so regular maintenance have been like 8-9k. I drove it from Ann Arbor to Boston and back with no problems.and after the first six months I began to.think it's the best car ever made (very subjective reasons). But around the time the two year service interval of the car came close it started to show some problems.
You see, I had other smaller issues which I don't mind and got taken care of (mostly) and they are the following:
1) Leather moulding surrounding b pillar getting its clip broken and replaced.
2) Driver side door sill leather panel sliding down and needing to be re-glued.
3) Passenger door seat housing discoloring
and having the part replaced
4) rear badge logo peeling off and having the badge replaced.
5) Rear passenger side area rattle > still to be diagnosed
6) passenger mirror squeaks likes an old door > still to be diagnosed
7) Door struts giving out and being replaced
8) Vehicle shaking roughly at 193mph due to dealership in Boston putting new rear tires with 37psi on the left and 33psi on the right. Minor error by the dealership honestly. I should've known better.
The real issues that have been bothering me/bothered me are:
1) Vehicle bogs at around 7000 rpm. This is the main problem omg. I need some knowledgeable advice please. Mclaren Boston replaced the fuel pump controller and it fixed the issue from like March to June but it came back. There is usually an engine system failure light at wide open throttle and it goes away after a few more WOTs but after a while the bogging at 7k rpm starts (INTERMITTENTLY). I am finally writing today as I got it on tape actually. Video link provided. I just came back from an oil change and warranty repairs a few weeks ago in Troy, Michigan and they said the power train was fine but the problem's consistent to this day.
2) Suspension Failure. I diagnosed the problem to the accumulators as when I set the dynanics of the car to track while the car's idling on neutral, the whining suspension noise starts going crazy lol like the noise the car's suspension(?) usually makes is long-ish but now it goes, swizuswizuswizuswizuswizu... it constantly goes on with the suspension failing to adjust. If i turn of the car off without putting the dynamics back to sport/comfort (in which after a while the suspension suddenly adjusts and the noise is normal again), upon turning the car on again I am 90% of the time greeted with a suspension failure light..love it.
3)Check engine light, p420 and the 30 or whatever catalyst codes. Both cats and downpipes replaced a few weeks ago at Mclaren Troy, Michigan. Problem solved (in so far). BUT WHY
The Mclaren dealers were great. Real gentlemen, the service advisors. Just wish they were quicker, but that is not a mark against them! Love mclaren and id be delighted to get the successor as well. They respected the warranties and never treated me any different from older multiple mclaren owners. Now the worst ordeal here is having my car's performance restricted since March and with the impeding cold season, I am very sad about my first world problem of not being able to thrash around in my beloved 720s.
Anyhoo here is the link to the video please watch it carefully. Engine revs up fine on second gear but bogs around 7k rpm on 3rd. Maybe bogs twice. I only put 93 and only from Shell. Notice there no fault lights this time. Its kind of random but the bottom line is, the car bogs bad!!! I really want my car back as it were in the first six months, idc if i have to pay for it really. I just hate to see it like this.
You see, I had other smaller issues which I don't mind and got taken care of (mostly) and they are the following:
1) Leather moulding surrounding b pillar getting its clip broken and replaced.
2) Driver side door sill leather panel sliding down and needing to be re-glued.
3) Passenger door seat housing discoloring
and having the part replaced
4) rear badge logo peeling off and having the badge replaced.
5) Rear passenger side area rattle > still to be diagnosed
6) passenger mirror squeaks likes an old door > still to be diagnosed
7) Door struts giving out and being replaced
8) Vehicle shaking roughly at 193mph due to dealership in Boston putting new rear tires with 37psi on the left and 33psi on the right. Minor error by the dealership honestly. I should've known better.
The real issues that have been bothering me/bothered me are:
1) Vehicle bogs at around 7000 rpm. This is the main problem omg. I need some knowledgeable advice please. Mclaren Boston replaced the fuel pump controller and it fixed the issue from like March to June but it came back. There is usually an engine system failure light at wide open throttle and it goes away after a few more WOTs but after a while the bogging at 7k rpm starts (INTERMITTENTLY). I am finally writing today as I got it on tape actually. Video link provided. I just came back from an oil change and warranty repairs a few weeks ago in Troy, Michigan and they said the power train was fine but the problem's consistent to this day.
2) Suspension Failure. I diagnosed the problem to the accumulators as when I set the dynanics of the car to track while the car's idling on neutral, the whining suspension noise starts going crazy lol like the noise the car's suspension(?) usually makes is long-ish but now it goes, swizuswizuswizuswizuswizu... it constantly goes on with the suspension failing to adjust. If i turn of the car off without putting the dynamics back to sport/comfort (in which after a while the suspension suddenly adjusts and the noise is normal again), upon turning the car on again I am 90% of the time greeted with a suspension failure light..love it.
3)Check engine light, p420 and the 30 or whatever catalyst codes. Both cats and downpipes replaced a few weeks ago at Mclaren Troy, Michigan. Problem solved (in so far). BUT WHY
The Mclaren dealers were great. Real gentlemen, the service advisors. Just wish they were quicker, but that is not a mark against them! Love mclaren and id be delighted to get the successor as well. They respected the warranties and never treated me any different from older multiple mclaren owners. Now the worst ordeal here is having my car's performance restricted since March and with the impeding cold season, I am very sad about my first world problem of not being able to thrash around in my beloved 720s.
Anyhoo here is the link to the video please watch it carefully. Engine revs up fine on second gear but bogs around 7k rpm on 3rd. Maybe bogs twice. I only put 93 and only from Shell. Notice there no fault lights this time. Its kind of random but the bottom line is, the car bogs bad!!! I really want my car back as it were in the first six months, idc if i have to pay for it really. I just hate to see it like this.
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Dealer confirmed that the turbos including compressors were ok. Cut offs are hard but at varying degrees. Sometimes very hard sometimes kind of soft.
Again, cats get wrecked by either having too much oil, fuel or coolant getting into them. You had yours replaced so that means one or the whole three were the cause.Thats a good assessment sir, but i just had the cats replaced like 3 weeks ago. Your comments have both piques my interest and confused me
Given that you are getting bogged down during accelaration and inlet diffusor is a problem, that causes a plastic part inside to get unglued and free inside the inlets, these inlets, that are the plastic tube that serves to direct air to the turbos, might come in contact with the turbo and wreck it. These turbos have oil inside, this oil will be sucked into the cylinder and causing the cats to fail, plugs getting fauled and cats ruined, and given that it's plastic getting in contact with a propeller your engine might very well have melted plastic inside.
So right now 100% for sure, you have inlet(s) diffuser loose, your plugs are fckd, and your turbos might be leaking.
My advice would be for the mechanics, to change plugs and coils, do a compression test and have a look inside the cylinders, test the injectors as well and run a fuel pump test (might as well cross it), check for leaks on the gaskets and more important of all change the bloody inlets and check the turbos for leaks.
Another recommendation, please try to find another shop, those people seem inapt to even work at those 10$ oil change scammy establishments..
To be really honest again, this issue even tho it's not the easiest to diagnose, isn't that big either, a decent mechanic regardless of brand, that doesn't have less than 2 brain cells, when presented with your openess for them to just fix it and find the issues and given the work load needed to get inside the belly, would just carry out an holistic diagnose to try to find what was wrong with the car to cause the cats to fail.
81 - 100 of 127 Posts
