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Discussion Starter #1
So i had this idea to add LEDs to the engine bay of the 600LT MSO. Saw a post on someone’s 720S and looks cool. So..... some 10 hours (*about 2 hours install and 8 hours figuring out the wiring and calling my tech from McLaren for advice..... etc....) and boom. Really happy with it. Fully Bluetooth, any color , works via the phone... and ..... total reversible without damage!. Total cost - about $80 in parts .. (thank god I don’t charge myself by the hour!). The kit... is the OPT7 engine bay kit (although... quick hint... the Opt7 grill and opt7 interior are the exact same kits! ). Great for shows.... a little personal touch!

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200463


200464
 

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Discussion Starter #5
that looks sweet. DIY guide?
happy to help explain as I’m sure for the next person it will be minutes vs hours ! The LEDs are attached to the cover NOT the car

200509


this way you are getting spread of the glow. The wiring . As you can see the Y connectors are in the top right and left . So... the cables then join to are attached to the car.. meaning when you remove the engine cover you have to carefully connect and disconnect the connectors before you pull the engine cover all the way off. It’s actually really easy if you know how to reMove the engine cover ! But bottom line when you place the cover onto the engine you take a few seconds to snap the electrical connectors to the LEDs . Note the way I designed it .. the cords are short and do not hang down! As for the two main 10 ft cords that bridge the LEDs to the main control unit that I located behind the driver seat. ... here comes the real challenge ...

if unlike me you have a car without the harness bar.. it’s pretty easy. There is a single 4” rubber bung on the fire wall . It’s on the passenger side in the engine back about 12 inches below the rear window. It’s grey . You can pass the two led cords through it . To reach it inside the car.. you have to remove the passenger seat. Remove the door jam panel and plus back the carpet. This will give you visibility and access to the firewall bung! Yep it’s a pain in ass! But you will be able to see the rubber bung. Here’s the tip ... you will need to cut the connectors off the 10 for leads so that you can make a small slit and push the cables through . You would then need to shoulder the wires and connectors that you cut to repair them. The other tip . When you remove the passenger seat.. do NOT NOT turn in the car ! If you do the car will log that you have a non functioning passenger airbag system and you must go to a dealer to clear the code . So ... please do not turn car to accessory mode when a seat is out,

if like me you have a harness bar.. then there is no way on gods green earth a way to get through the firewall ! Hence the 10 hours of planning and talking to my pal at McLaren! The way you do it with a harness bar is sneaky . There is a channel that runs down the outside of the car from the engine bay and comes out at the rubber below the rear quarter windows . So you pass the wire inside these channels and I hid the wires inside the rubber trim and actually had to cut a small v in the driver door trim (behind the rubber seal so it’s never seen ) and this then allows you to pass the two wires into the car ! Confusing I’m sure.... but anyone with a harness bar.. I can talk you through it.
Once the two leads that connect the LEDs and the control unit are now in the cabin ( regardless of whether you have a harness bar or not ), then it’s a final choice ..! The kit can either be hardwired . The fuse is behind the driver seat. Or you can use the connector they provide and pull it into the cigarette socket in the glove box.

Photos below are the complete pain in ass for feeding the wires if you have a harness bar! As said .. if you don’t have a harness bar .. then it’s much much easier.

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the above is how you trace the wire and as you see.. once you hide the wire it’s completely stealth !
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The above shows the connector on the inside of the engine bay on the driver side .

ultimately it’s not hard ( says the guy who spent hours figuring it out and trying to get the wires past the firewall ) . The effect it incredible .

pm if you have other questions
 

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Does this system pulse like a breathing animal?
 

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For reference, here's the LED strip link:
- Aura Pro Engine Bay LED Light Kit
- Coupon Code "EMAIL10" brings the cost down to $51.20 USD

I think we can skip a few steps here for simplicity and prevent user error:
  • Removing the Seats;
  • Cutting the driver's side door trim, and instead using something like smaller cutouts of a carpet floor strip cord
(https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Management-Protect-Prevent-10Length/dp/B07T5X31J2/);

2x Questions:
 

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Discussion Starter #9
For reference, here's the LED strip link:
I think we can skip a few steps here for simplicity and prevent user error:
  • Removing the Seats;
  • Cutting the driver's side door trim, and instead using something like smaller cutouts of a carpet floor strip cord
(https://www.amazon.com/Protector-Management-Protect-Prevent-10Length/dp/B07T5X31J2/);

2x Questions:
Appreciate the time saving ideas. perhaps i need to clarify.

In terms of the 'skip a few steps'. If you are running the wire through the firewall grommet then pushing the passenger seat all the way forward will (may) work although its going to be tight work space. there are only 4 star bolts holding the seat in place ... so 5 minutes of work provides you way more room to do the work. note - if you remove the seat (5 minutes) you just unclip the occupancy sensor (the connector is on the lower rear of the seat (one easy tab to release it), but.... do NOT turn the car on.!!! not even to accessory mode! otherwise the ECU will read a fault and you are taking a trip to dealer to clear the code. you CAN open and shut the doors as this doesnt register the seat being removed.

in order to run the cable through the grommet on the fire wall (its a 4" circular rubber) you will dis-attach (there are three snaps and a velcro) the side trim (the one with the emergency red pull comes through). you ALSO have to pull back the carpet trim (its just has Velcro at the bottom (simple). .. and you should be able to get you arm up inside the channel below the quarter window... (you arm will go past the speaker). personally - I would personally SEE the grommet but as i said in my post .. i have a track edition with the roll bar. so.... that is why on mine i had to be creative and come down an external channel on the outside. this was the ONLY option (other than spending hours removing the roll bar. and even still i would not of had enough room in the engine bay to get my hand (and the wires) to the grommet (on the engine side).. why? because i ALSO have a snorkel, and the air channels to the turbos block access to the rubber grommet.

Also - cutting the driver side trim was the only way (tried multiple options) to bring the cables in and still allow the rubber door gasket to fit cleanly. As you can see from my photo, i 'could' have made the grove smaller (a little) but heck i was the first one to do this... so.... i made a square cut . the metal is very soft... and as said - you can not tell when the ruber door seal is back in place. . Anyway - as said - i have a roll bar, AND a snorkel, and the ONLY way to get to the gasket was the creative way that myself and a Mclaren tech could find. We even did a full wiring diagnostic inside the engine bay, to see if there were taps... but that was a dead end option too. there IS an accessory wire to the rear quarter light that you could possibly tap. it requires you to remove the rear wheel, the fender liner to get access to the hot and ground. BUT I didnt want to have to leave the car in accessory mode during car shows.

Your questions.

1. Removing the engine cover is simplicity its self. you use a star type wrench to do a quarter turn on the oil / coolant cover. these are spring released so you do NOT try to unscrew the two bolts. a quarter turn and pop.. up come those two bolts. then simply lift off the service (oil / coolant) cover. under that are two more bolts. (same size) that also use the star wrench. unbolt those (they both have large washers so be sure not to forget them. One=ce the two bolts are fully removed, you are ready to remove you engine cover, if you are clumsy i recommend placing blue tape on the inside edge of your wing and on the rear lip of you roof (in case you bang the cover when removing it!). I did NOT do either as the engine cover is LIGHT. to remove.... stand at the back of the car. reach across the wing. out your hands at 9 and 3 either side of the engine cover. ... . about 12 " up from the rear edge of the engine cover. and pull upwards. there are two small clips holding the engine cover down at the back. they EASILY pop. Then CAREFULLY (CAREFULLY!!!!!) hold both sides of the engine cover... pull towards you (toward the back of the car) ! you only have to give it a very small (2" tug!) an this releases the clamps at the front edge of the engine cover. then CAREFULLY lift the whole thing OFF the car and (like me) lay it on blankets on the floor.

2. I used a strong 3M ADHESIVE ENHANCER. these strips are going nowhere. Not even under heated conditions. plus - at the points i mounted them, there is both airflow AND they not over the actual engine they are along the sides and leading edge. there will be no issue at all. Clearly im a track guy, so i will field test (when life gets back to normal) and let folks know.
 

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Cool project! I have a 720, so do not need this as the lighting (only one color) is good for me. But any thoughts on why not hooking to the break light, instead of up front. Did something similar with lighting in the back of my Jeep, and hooked/spliced and soldered it to the break lights, so when the lights are on it would be on as well. Mine was for a hitch light around the license plate and small. Just more curious if that would be an option.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You could IF you wanted this thing on when lights were on. as mentioned above, on the 600LT there is a rear light hot and ground under the wheel well liner. you remove the wheel and pull it off to expose the wire. I discussed at LENGTH with the head tech of mclaren new jersey and orlando (aaron) and we went over the entire 600 wiring loom to think of options. As said also - if i didnt have the MSO harness bar and snorkel, then the pass through to the cabon would have been easier (much) through the firewall. as i wanted a 'constant hot (unlike a brake light, and didnt want to have to have the accessory mode turned on (side marker) then i needed to go into the cabin. Trust me... we discussed ALL options. Interestingly i also did NOT have to wire direct to the fuse panel as i have a Cell link behind the driver side. that way im not depleting the car battery. I suppose, i 'could' of added a cell link hidden in the rear and power it off the lights (to charge) but that would make a very expensive option and the Celllink also doesnt do well to the elements. Ultimately its like any first time install... now i know where and how on an MSO with harness bar and snorkel i could probably do it in a couple of hours. I do beleive that any 600 owner who has no snorkel or harness bar could install in about an hour!
 

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this looks fantastic, its a shame they dont sell this kit in the UK

Ill try and source a similar kit and ill be attempting this lol

How hard would it have been to wire this into the fuse box so that it comes on with the ignition
 

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Discussion Starter #14
it is incredibly easy to tap into the fuse box. its located directly behind the drivers seat (left hand drive car). there is a post already a long post on this forum on the driver side fuse box. images of fuse location below. I have my dashcam wired in this exact same way

200569
 

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lol it’s funny that you and i were are also chatting on that original dashcam thread. i didn’t even realize

what a coincidence of interests!
 

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Is there a fuse that we can tap into for when only the headlights are on?
- I currently tapped it along with the same Accessory Dashcam link, but I think I only want the light to be on when it’s dark out (headlights on).

Also, did you run 2x extension cords to the back?
- I just ran 1x extension cord and ordered additional Y-splitters (Amazon.com: DITRIO 4pcs of 24inch Extension Pigtail Wire with 4 Pins for RGB LED Light Strip Kit in MultiColor including 3pcs of Y 1-2 Way Splitters for Motorcycles ATVs UTVs Harley Davidson: Automotive). I'm going to try to split-connect all 4 LED strips to just 1 outlet from the power source. (EDIT: cables arrive this Sunday)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Is there a fuse that we can tap into when only the headlights are on? I currently tapped it along with the Accessory Dashcam link, but I think I only want it on when it’s dark out (headlights on)

Also, did you run 2x extension cords to the back? How did you split into two Y-connecters at the end?

plots of good questions

1. if you want when the lights are on then it’s a case where you could tap at the back of the car, there is the lighting loom to the rear lights inside the rear passenger wheel, under the liner. I wanted a constant hot so that I could have the light on at any time . As for a fuse .. I would assume that yes , in the box behind the driver seat there is a circuit associated to the lights. I will check
2. Yes I ran the two 10ft cords to the back .
3. Attached to the underside of my engine cover are 4 light strips (2each side). You can see them on the original post. Each PAIR of led lights then attaches to a Y connector. Then of course each of the two wires from the control box plugs into those Y connectors

I’ll check on the fuse for you
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is there a fuse that we can tap into for when only the headlights are on?
- I currently tapped it along with the same Accessory Dashcam link, but I think I only want the light to be on when it’s dark out (headlights on).

Also, did you run 2x extension cords to the back?
- I just ran 1x extension cord and ordered additional Y-splitters (Amazon.com: DITRIO 4pcs of 24inch Extension Pigtail Wire with 4 Pins for RGB LED Light Strip Kit in MultiColor including 3pcs of Y 1-2 Way Splitters for Motorcycles ATVs UTVs Harley Davidson: Automotive). I'm going to try to split-connect all 4 LED strips to just 1 outlet from the power source. (EDIT: cables arrive this Sunday)
the fuse is not in the cabin . The light fuse is in the frunk. Labeled F3 (25amp). So that’s no good for you . As said the is a light /hot at the back. Basically the wire that traces to the side marker
 

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Hmmm.. I wonder if there are any pictures on how to access that wire, and if it'll require a traditional cut and tap
 

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Discussion Starter #20
if you are referring to the wire at the BACK? then you can always call a mclaren service (i.e. aaron wacker over at new jersey). To access that rear light wire, you remove the rear passenger wheel, remove the wheel liner, and then you have visibility. Again - would recommend confirming with a tech. Yes - you would NOT cut! you use a wire tap that allows you to pull feed off the wire that becomes hot when lights are on. that wire would then be the one feeding your LEDs! my recommendation. you should NOT be lookig to feed off the lights. it is ILLEGAL to have certain colors on while driving. By giving yourself a feed from a constant hot (and using an inline switch) you can then choose whenever you do or dont want to have the lights on. i also want to be able to turn them on when lights are off! for a max effect. so .. personally i would wire it the same way i did.
 
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