Garage floor options - Page 3 - McLaren Life
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post #31 of 39 Old 03-13-2019, 02:15 PM
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I have a commercial grade epoxy in my garage. The floor was sanded and the joints were filled. The flooring is impenetrable. My floor approximates granite, but I like some of the new metallic swirl coatings out there. If i were to redo my floor, this is what I would do...

https://www.google.com/search?q=meta...f-9f6qo7qIJiM:
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post #32 of 39 Old 03-13-2019, 04:39 PM
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Any comments on porcelain (etc.) tile?

I have a new house in Port Townsend, WA with an about 620 sq ft attached garage. The garage is currently uninsulated, so I plan to insulate walls and ceiling and add heat, plus a four-post lift to fit three cars in comfortably. This leaves the currently unfinished and uninsulated concrete slab to deal with.

I don't want a slippery finish as the garage will be a workspace for general woodwork/metalwork as well as for automotive stuff. Welding is also on the cards, so I don't want anything combustible on the floor.

With porcelain tile, there is the possibility of electric underfloor heat, using such underlayments as Schluter's "Ditra Heat". I'm not expecting to heat the garage with this alone, but to take the chill off the floor.


Does anyone have experience with porcelain tile, especially with underfloor heat? I gather that quality porcelain tile over concrete is as tough (if not tougher) than the concrete itself, but what about when applied over the underfloor heating substrate?
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post #33 of 39 Old 03-13-2019, 05:08 PM
 
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Race Deck is great for northern climates, I pull it out in the summer and mop it and that's it. It can handle fluids, tools, and jack stands but I always put a piece of plywood underneath to be safe. $2.25 sqf and very easy to install/cut.

However....

DO NOT spin your tires as you back out!! haha, Wife almost spit out half the flooring. Epoxy I feel is the best flooring to use though as it just looks so good and very easy to clean. My brother had it installed but our cold weather -63F this winter just ends up cracking everything. That could be due to the installer as well who knows but it looks terrible once you try and patch anything.
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post #34 of 39 Old 03-13-2019, 08:46 PM
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Any comments on porcelain (etc.) tile?

I have a new house in Port Townsend, WA with an about 620 sq ft attached garage. The garage is currently uninsulated, so I plan to insulate walls and ceiling and add heat, plus a four-post lift to fit three cars in comfortably. This leaves the currently unfinished and uninsulated concrete slab to deal with.

I don't want a slippery finish as the garage will be a workspace for general woodwork/metalwork as well as for automotive stuff. Welding is also on the cards, so I don't want anything combustible on the floor.

With porcelain tile, there is the possibility of electric underfloor heat, using such underlayments as Schluter's "Ditra Heat". I'm not expecting to heat the garage with this alone, but to take the chill off the floor.


Does anyone have experience with porcelain tile, especially with underfloor heat? I gather that quality porcelain tile over concrete is as tough (if not tougher) than the concrete itself, but what about when applied over the underfloor heating substrate?
Normally you do not install tile directly to a concrete floor, they normally use Ditra mat so the tile kinda floats above the concrete floor. As a side note my Aston Martin dealer has tiles on their service bay floors, I know there are several grades of tiles for this purpose.

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post #35 of 39 Old 03-14-2019, 12:07 AM
 
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Forget the flooring, that Lotus is pretty!!
Thanks. We have had a lot of fun together. Looking to find out just how brave/foolish each of us could be.

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post #36 of 39 Old 03-14-2019, 06:28 AM
 
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Garage
Heres mine, I went with epoxy and a single post lift
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post #37 of 39 Old 04-11-2019, 05:41 PM
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Solid resin floor, with pattern that makes it appear to be tiled.





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post #38 of 39 Old Today, 05:42 PM
 
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Heres mine, I went with epoxy and a single post lift
The floor looks great! I am now considering putting a new gloss layer over mine. How have you found the cleanup to be so far on yours? (BTW, I love that single post lift...still can't figure out the physics of them, but it looks great!)

Here is mine now... seems my earlier photo on this thread disappeared.


Last edited by Dave_Car_Guy; Today at 05:45 PM.
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post #39 of 39 Old Today, 08:17 PM
 
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It depends on whether you want to do this yourself or have a professional do the job. For it to be done well and the product to last you want to be off the floor for 10-14 days from beginning to end. I have used the UCoatit epoxy system (https://ucoatit.com). I disagree about winter and epoxy not working. The only time it peels or has an issue is with HOT tires either leaving tread marks or peeling the coating.
As with any paint job the outcome is all about the prep work. Floors need to be cleaned, possibly diamond grinder, and etched with Muriatic acid. UCoatit offers many options of finishes, colors, systems that work well. You do want to add some sort of grit to the finish because when wet it is slippery as hell.

Another option is to diamond polish the concrete, this involves using progressively finer heads to achieve a mirror like finish. (Which will be slippery as hell)

Lastly you could use a vinyl mat either diamond plate style or coin tile and adhere it to the floor with an adhesive.

All these have their plusses and minuses. The UCoatit stuff works pretty well and they are super helpful with any questions before you order. If you have the time, are creative and meticulous it would be a fun project. If you are going to hire someone park the Maserati and McLaren somewhere else lest your quote get inflated.
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