Soft Close Door DIY - McLaren Life
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post #1 of 19 Old 02-13-2019, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Feb 2019
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Soft Close Door DIY

Hi Guys,



I am a new 12C owner, and I also have a 570s plus a bunch of Porsches. On the Porsches I have been doing my own work for 25 years, I am also a Porsche engine builder and have a machine shop. Lastly, I own a PIWIS which is like the McLaren diagnostic tool (dealer level access to the computers).


So I guess you could say I am handy.


Anyways, I am not seeing much in the way of DIY as far as soft close latches. I searched, but couldn't find much.


Anyone do this retrofit themselves?


Tips?


Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 19 Old 02-13-2019, 08:29 PM
 
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I do recall a DIY thread on this with pictures.

It sounds like it'd be a piece of cake for you.
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post #3 of 19 Old 02-13-2019, 09:14 PM
 
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Originally Posted by bbeavers View Post
I do recall a DIY thread on this with pictures.

It sounds like it'd be a piece of cake for you.
Yes @Texzen posted
“Just finished my '12 left hand drive swipe door coupe soft door close install, dreaded this job for months based on reviews....Not near that bad.... I had the right side passenger door done in less than an hour.....left side about an hour and half. Both sides included a couple 5-10 minute breaks and 10 minutes of glue drying to put the covers back on. Plug and play. Highly recommended.......
The Process......
Passenger Side, first fold seat backs forward and move seats all the way forward and down....
1) Remove lower and upper b-Pillers just pull lower section outward and upper section upward. Upper piece may come attached to the lower piece. 2) Pull and unsnap center deck trim from under window, no need to pull the rear deck itself 3) Pull rear corner trim (pull away from corner) snaps out. 4) Pull Seat belt all the way out giving as much room as possible, Zip tie it so it won't retract on you, just set the trim piece with the seat belt still threaded trough it to the inside way from where your working........ undo top large nut on seat belt mechanism, you'll need a open end wrench to hold the locknut underneath. 5) Remove (4) 13 mm bolts holding seat belt mechanism in place. After its free, just move it aside onto the rear deck with wires, cables and belt still attached. Unsnap the wire restraints from the frame but no need to unplug them. No need to remove anything from this assembly at this point. 6) Remove this plastic cover from the over the door switch. Some said heat, I just used a flat blade screwdriver. Its just a thin plastic weather barrier. Leaving everything else attached, undo the keyring from the manual release strap. Using a flat balde screwdriver, push the manual release cable end out of the fork on the seat belt mechanism and pull the cable through the thin plastic cover. Leave everything else going through the cover. 7) Unplug the electrical connector with the red release tab from the door switch and Using a flat balde screwdriver, push the manual release cable end out of the fork on the seat belt mechanism. 😎 Undo the three Allen bolts in the Jamb and remove the switch. 9) Install new switch, three boldt and electrical plug. Test door, new switch should work. 10) Re-position plastic cover trim and push new manual release cable through plastic cover. Glue or reheat plastic cover back in place. I used 20 minute RTV silicone. 11) Reinstall parts in reverse order. Be careful you haven't rolled the seat belt into a twist or you get to take it out again...
Driver Door
Same as other except the dreaded manual key release addition. Some said go in through the fuel door. I have had to mess with the fuel door before so I wasn't going that way. McLaren 12c manufacturing starts with a fuel door rolling down the assembly line... Terrible Design!
Locate the manual key mechanism. Remove the engine bay cover on that side. Get up in there on a big thick blanket and look where your going. Undo the one radiator hose thats blocking your view. Scrap the pinch clamp and put a proper one in it place when reassembling. I was able get a flashlight and use a mechanical part grabber to lift the cable ball out of the arm. Tie a stealthy string onto the cable behind the ball and pull from the latch side the string through its grommet and into the switch area. Tie it onto the new cable on the new switch and pull it into the engine bay. Reconnect it. Ensure that this all works before reassembling other parts.
In here you will see the poor the design of the blade access key.... even with a free gliding cable the arm of the key barrel is so short due to its confined space its almost impossible to turn and release the door. Pliers require so much force the key wants to twist off before it releases the door. You really need one person to push down on the door while another turns the key with pliers. Horrible design given how frequently the battery dies on these cars. I thought real hard about just extending the cable with a common motorcycle cable extender and hiding it up in the fender well (no one would ever find it or be looking for it) or remounting the key with a longer arm somewhere else making it much easier to open the door with it. But I just put it back the way it came and ill do that another day.....
Best improvement to car yet......The doors and Iris are the worst part of the car...... Im still working on an IRIS 3, almost done....”
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Last edited by eMcL; 02-13-2019 at 09:17 PM.
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post #4 of 19 Old 02-13-2019, 09:50 PM
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@Catorce Let me know if you want a service manual.

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post #5 of 19 Old 02-13-2019, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eMcL View Post
Yes @Texzen posted
“Just finished my '12 left hand drive swipe door coupe soft door close install, dreaded this job for months based on reviews....Not near that bad.... I had the right side passenger door done in less than an hour.....left side about an hour and half. Both sides included a couple 5-10 minute breaks and 10 minutes of glue drying to put the covers back on. Plug and play. Highly recommended.......
The Process......
Passenger Side, first fold seat backs forward and move seats all the way forward and down....
1) Remove lower and upper b-Pillers just pull lower section outward and upper section upward. Upper piece may come attached to the lower piece. 2) Pull and unsnap center deck trim from under window, no need to pull the rear deck itself 3) Pull rear corner trim (pull away from corner) snaps out. 4) Pull Seat belt all the way out giving as much room as possible, Zip tie it so it won't retract on you, just set the trim piece with the seat belt still threaded trough it to the inside way from where your working........ undo top large nut on seat belt mechanism, you'll need a open end wrench to hold the locknut underneath. 5) Remove (4) 13 mm bolts holding seat belt mechanism in place. After its free, just move it aside onto the rear deck with wires, cables and belt still attached. Unsnap the wire restraints from the frame but no need to unplug them. No need to remove anything from this assembly at this point. 6) Remove this plastic cover from the over the door switch. Some said heat, I just used a flat blade screwdriver. Its just a thin plastic weather barrier. Leaving everything else attached, undo the keyring from the manual release strap. Using a flat balde screwdriver, push the manual release cable end out of the fork on the seat belt mechanism and pull the cable through the thin plastic cover. Leave everything else going through the cover. 7) Unplug the electrical connector with the red release tab from the door switch and Using a flat balde screwdriver, push the manual release cable end out of the fork on the seat belt mechanism. 😎 Undo the three Allen bolts in the Jamb and remove the switch. 9) Install new switch, three boldt and electrical plug. Test door, new switch should work. 10) Re-position plastic cover trim and push new manual release cable through plastic cover. Glue or reheat plastic cover back in place. I used 20 minute RTV silicone. 11) Reinstall parts in reverse order. Be careful you haven't rolled the seat belt into a twist or you get to take it out again...
Driver Door
Same as other except the dreaded manual key release addition. Some said go in through the fuel door. I have had to mess with the fuel door before so I wasn't going that way. McLaren 12c manufacturing starts with a fuel door rolling down the assembly line... Terrible Design!
Locate the manual key mechanism. Remove the engine bay cover on that side. Get up in there on a big thick blanket and look where your going. Undo the one radiator hose thats blocking your view. Scrap the pinch clamp and put a proper one in it place when reassembling. I was able get a flashlight and use a mechanical part grabber to lift the cable ball out of the arm. Tie a stealthy string onto the cable behind the ball and pull from the latch side the string through its grommet and into the switch area. Tie it onto the new cable on the new switch and pull it into the engine bay. Reconnect it. Ensure that this all works before reassembling other parts.
In here you will see the poor the design of the blade access key.... even with a free gliding cable the arm of the key barrel is so short due to its confined space its almost impossible to turn and release the door. Pliers require so much force the key wants to twist off before it releases the door. You really need one person to push down on the door while another turns the key with pliers. Horrible design given how frequently the battery dies on these cars. I thought real hard about just extending the cable with a common motorcycle cable extender and hiding it up in the fender well (no one would ever find it or be looking for it) or remounting the key with a longer arm somewhere else making it much easier to open the door with it. But I just put it back the way it came and ill do that another day.....
Best improvement to car yet......The doors and Iris are the worst part of the car...... Im still working on an IRIS 3, almost done....”

Excellent!!!! Thank you so much!!!!


Love the cars, brand new convert.
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post #6 of 19 Old 02-13-2019, 11:31 PM Thread Starter
 
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@Catorce Let me know if you want a service manual.

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post #7 of 19 Old 02-14-2019, 04:45 AM
 
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@Catorce good to see you over here as well - welcome to Maclife. That “Mclaren success” thread over on RL is a complete laugh - staunch manual / NA Porsche die-hards vs those who’ve experienced the magic of the Mac. Makes for good reading!!
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post #8 of 19 Old 02-14-2019, 12:42 PM
 
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I have the Mclaren Guide on how to do this... I setup a facebook group for owners I'll post it there for anyone interested.

Here is the link if anyone is interested:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1979859972281944/

Last edited by carbon; 02-14-2019 at 12:48 PM.
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post #9 of 19 Old 02-14-2019, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
 
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Originally Posted by Ducati1199 View Post
@Catorce good to see you over here as well - welcome to Maclife. That “Mclaren success” thread over on RL is a complete laugh - staunch manual / NA Porsche die-hards vs those who’ve experienced the magic of the Mac. Makes for good reading!!

Likewise!


I actually thought the McLaren Success thread was pretty complimentary to Mac. Honestly, I think that thread helped me buy my first one, because I was curious as to the rave reviews.


I am a die hard Porsche fanatic, but to be perfectly honest, Porsche does not make a comparable car to Mac. No, I have never driven a CGT or 918, and maybe my opinion might change if I did, but the problem with Porsche is that the cars are simply NOT AVAILABLE to mere mortals.


Mac is on a whole other level, nothing Mac does directly diminishes Porsche, its just not even in the same league. Love them both but they are different animals.
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post #10 of 19 Old 02-14-2019, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carbon View Post
I have the Mclaren Guide on how to do this... I setup a facebook group for owners I'll post it there for anyone interested.

Here is the link if anyone is interested:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/1979859972281944/

Thank you! Could you PM me the guide? I don't have facebook

Current cars:
70 914-6
73 911T RS Clone
75 911 Turbo Targa
78 928 - 6.54L
83 911 Euro SC
88 928S4
02 911 Targa
04 911 40th
07 997 Twin Turbo
09 997 Twin Turbo
11 Camaro SS 850whp
12 McLaren 12C
16 McLaren 570S
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post #11 of 19 Old 02-14-2019, 05:15 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Catorce View Post
Love them both but they are different animals.

Exactly!! I alway thought an RS and a Mac in the garage would be very complimentary.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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post #12 of 19 Old 02-14-2019, 06:57 PM
 
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Thank you! Could you PM me the guide? I don't have facebook
Sure - shoot me your email.
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post #13 of 19 Old 02-15-2019, 12:19 AM
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You will find the best collection of DIY Info for your P11 right here!!!

https://www.mclarenlife.com/forums/m...lf-thread.html


enjoy!

- 2012 McLaren MP4-12C Graphite Gray (his)
- 2012 McLaren MP4-12C Brilliant White (hers)
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post #14 of 19 Old 02-22-2019, 02:34 PM Thread Starter
 
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So I wound up doing this basically without any instructions. It was a very easy job as far as the operations involved - the difficulty is 100% in dealing with that retarded emergency exterior door release on the driver's side.


Here is how I did it:


- remove interior B pillar trim and trim around back window.
- unplug seatbelt sensors
- remove both sets seatbelt retractor bolts
- remove 17mm seatbelt king pin bolts either side
- Put seatbelt retractors in footwell to get them out of the way.
- remove plastic weather plates with a screw driver. Factory black goo is reusable and stays sticky. Set aside.
- remove 3 allen bolts that hold door latches in both sides.
- pull out door latch from recess. Unplug wires.
- Disconnect emergency INSIDE cable from leather straps.


Now on the PASSENGER side, you are basically done, you just swap out the door latch with the soft close unit, and put everything back. On the DRIVER side however, you are just getting started!


- In engine bay, remove expansion tank trim.
- unbolt expansion tank, pull and twist for access to left side carbon trim in engine bay
- remove left side trim in engine bay
- spot cable running inside fender to emergency key
- Remove emergency key panel within outside air intake
- spot emergency key tumbler. Remove two allen bolts and tumbler inside fender
- from inside engine bay pull on cable to move tumbler out where you can reach it and unhook the ball
- Remove old latch. Put new latch in, routing long cable through hole in fender to engine bay.
- With the tumbler free, you can easily hook the ball latch on and then shove the whole assembly back in the fender.
- Line up emergency tumbler with hole in fender, install 2 allen bolts.
- Put the whole car back together again, which is really easy.


Soft close doors are 100% plug and play. My passenger door required a massive hard slam to close before this....now you just set the door down and it does the rest!


Swipe soft close doors accomplished!
bbeavers, eMcL, BigHead and 1 others like this.

Current cars:
70 914-6
73 911T RS Clone
75 911 Turbo Targa
78 928 - 6.54L
83 911 Euro SC
88 928S4
02 911 Targa
04 911 40th
07 997 Twin Turbo
09 997 Twin Turbo
11 Camaro SS 850whp
12 McLaren 12C
16 McLaren 570S
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post #15 of 19 Old 02-24-2019, 05:56 AM
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My car required a hard push to close. My mechanic adjusted the latches for me during a service. Easy to close now, no slamming required and no wind noise/leaks.
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