This DIY is a bit different, because I have already opened my battery, I have discovered what is broken, but I'm not quite sure just yet how to fix it! I'm hoping one of you can help! We are going to need someone with a background in electronics to point me in the right direction, so lets get started investigating just what really is inside your mysterious lightweight McLaren car battery?
BUT FIRST - The "WHY?"
I dropped my car off at the body shop 2 weeks ago to have an annoying scratch touched up, and somehow they let the battery drain all the way down. Now what I don't know is what exactly happened after that? Maybe they tried to jump start it? Maybe they crossed the positive/negative just for a millisecond? Maybe they read the owners manual and they did everything exactly by the book and used my battery charger, etc. Well, We will never know for sure... but what we do know is now my 3,000.00 battery is kaput!
I still have not accepted reality and I still want to fix the battery myself, even if to just to say I did it and prove it can be done! I know in the end I may have to pony up and buy a new one, but I am not the kind of guy to not investigate all options before handing over my money.
Your 12C will run a standard lead acid battery! (The owners manual even says you can do so in an emergency).
Things I learned running on a lead acid battery:
1) 100.00 at the auto parts store and your back on the road again!
2) lead acid battery's are HEAVY!
3) You will lose some functionality
4) The battery meter will always read "zero" and the car will play it safe and will not allow you to roll your windows all the way up that last 1/4 of an inch. I'm sure this is so you can still open the doors if the battery really was "zero", but it is annoying none the less.
5) Just when you think your windows are destined to be slightly cracked forever, after about 15 minutes they suddenly rolled themselves all the way up! Don't get too excited, the whole process starts over when you restart the car.
6) The car does not trust me anymore. If I put it in reverse with out my seat belt on, the parking brake will reengage itself. This makes you stop. Unexpectedly. After you are already moving.
7) My park sensor/side mirrors switch flashes red at low speeds, and give a long beep when I reverse. Not sure why?
8) I feel disadvantaged knowing I have 35+ extra pounds up front now. I can't wait to get back to normal with my super expensive Lithium Ion battery.
Now lets talk about the technology. "A123 Systems" manufactures these great little Lithium-Ion power cells that are very versatile and modular allowing an infinite number of configuration possibilities. Way back in 2009/2010 they partnered with McLaren and configured 12 individual Lithium-Ion power cells into a tidy little package to become the primary battery power source for our beloved 12C's.
There are 3 main components inside the battery:
1) Power Storage - Once A123 Systems stacks the 12 Lith-ion cells side by side, they then solder the +/- tabs into groups of 3 creating 4 cells approximately 3.40 volts each. Those 4 cells are then wired in a series configuration allowing the voltage of each cell to add to the next bringing the total voltage to around 13.60 volts. Perfect for starting a car! (I am aware amperage and current draw are also part of the equation. The batteries sticker says this configuration is good for around 400 amps)
FYI - Turns out My 'Power Storage' part of the battery is super healthy! None of the cells are swollen or puffy, and they all have the correct voltage. This is the heart of the battery, and I'm happy that it is ok.
2) Power Management PCB - Ok, I'm sure some other people here can describe this better and in a much more technical sense than i can (and I'm hoping you guys are gonna help me out with the solution to fix this battery as well). Basically there are two circuit boards inside the battery. One is a very low current device, and it looks to be the brains of the operation. In order for the 12 individual cells to work together you need a smart charging solution that can monitor and charge each of the 12 packs individually, yet allow them all to work together to provide a combined amperage and voltage to run the starter and other electronics on-board the MP4-12C.
3) Heavy Duty Power distribution - The second circuit board looks very heavy duty and I believe it is the heart of where all this voltage and amperage is either combined or separated when it comes to charging each cell individually.
If you look at the pictures below you will see the process of cutting the battery open, how it is assembled, and finally you will see my heavy duty circuit board went up in smoke on the negative rail side.
Please, any of you super-intelligent electronics experts! Can you tell by looking at this board if the parts needed are common? I can only comment that it looks very similar to a MOSFET device used in an audio amplifier. Hopefully it is common, and an electronics repair shop can do the work? Looking forward to all of your responses!
BUT FIRST - The "WHY?"
I dropped my car off at the body shop 2 weeks ago to have an annoying scratch touched up, and somehow they let the battery drain all the way down. Now what I don't know is what exactly happened after that? Maybe they tried to jump start it? Maybe they crossed the positive/negative just for a millisecond? Maybe they read the owners manual and they did everything exactly by the book and used my battery charger, etc. Well, We will never know for sure... but what we do know is now my 3,000.00 battery is kaput!
I still have not accepted reality and I still want to fix the battery myself, even if to just to say I did it and prove it can be done! I know in the end I may have to pony up and buy a new one, but I am not the kind of guy to not investigate all options before handing over my money.
Your 12C will run a standard lead acid battery! (The owners manual even says you can do so in an emergency).
Things I learned running on a lead acid battery:
1) 100.00 at the auto parts store and your back on the road again!
2) lead acid battery's are HEAVY!
3) You will lose some functionality
4) The battery meter will always read "zero" and the car will play it safe and will not allow you to roll your windows all the way up that last 1/4 of an inch. I'm sure this is so you can still open the doors if the battery really was "zero", but it is annoying none the less.
5) Just when you think your windows are destined to be slightly cracked forever, after about 15 minutes they suddenly rolled themselves all the way up! Don't get too excited, the whole process starts over when you restart the car.
6) The car does not trust me anymore. If I put it in reverse with out my seat belt on, the parking brake will reengage itself. This makes you stop. Unexpectedly. After you are already moving.
7) My park sensor/side mirrors switch flashes red at low speeds, and give a long beep when I reverse. Not sure why?
8) I feel disadvantaged knowing I have 35+ extra pounds up front now. I can't wait to get back to normal with my super expensive Lithium Ion battery.
Now lets talk about the technology. "A123 Systems" manufactures these great little Lithium-Ion power cells that are very versatile and modular allowing an infinite number of configuration possibilities. Way back in 2009/2010 they partnered with McLaren and configured 12 individual Lithium-Ion power cells into a tidy little package to become the primary battery power source for our beloved 12C's.
There are 3 main components inside the battery:
1) Power Storage - Once A123 Systems stacks the 12 Lith-ion cells side by side, they then solder the +/- tabs into groups of 3 creating 4 cells approximately 3.40 volts each. Those 4 cells are then wired in a series configuration allowing the voltage of each cell to add to the next bringing the total voltage to around 13.60 volts. Perfect for starting a car! (I am aware amperage and current draw are also part of the equation. The batteries sticker says this configuration is good for around 400 amps)
FYI - Turns out My 'Power Storage' part of the battery is super healthy! None of the cells are swollen or puffy, and they all have the correct voltage. This is the heart of the battery, and I'm happy that it is ok.
2) Power Management PCB - Ok, I'm sure some other people here can describe this better and in a much more technical sense than i can (and I'm hoping you guys are gonna help me out with the solution to fix this battery as well). Basically there are two circuit boards inside the battery. One is a very low current device, and it looks to be the brains of the operation. In order for the 12 individual cells to work together you need a smart charging solution that can monitor and charge each of the 12 packs individually, yet allow them all to work together to provide a combined amperage and voltage to run the starter and other electronics on-board the MP4-12C.
3) Heavy Duty Power distribution - The second circuit board looks very heavy duty and I believe it is the heart of where all this voltage and amperage is either combined or separated when it comes to charging each cell individually.
If you look at the pictures below you will see the process of cutting the battery open, how it is assembled, and finally you will see my heavy duty circuit board went up in smoke on the negative rail side.
Please, any of you super-intelligent electronics experts! Can you tell by looking at this board if the parts needed are common? I can only comment that it looks very similar to a MOSFET device used in an audio amplifier. Hopefully it is common, and an electronics repair shop can do the work? Looking forward to all of your responses!